Timing question - Chevy HHR Network


2.2L Performance Tech 16 valve 143 hp EcoTec with 150 lb-ft of torque

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Old 06-13-2017, 05:54 PM   #1
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Timing question

Ok, so i put new timing chains and sprockets in my 2.2 ecotec cobalt to fix stretched timing chain. I noticed that once everything was together, my can markings pulled a little closer together. Makes sense due to stretching. And all markings for the top end timing line up great. But, the balance shaft markings aren't quite the same as when I tore it apart. The arrows on the gears were at 6 and 12 when I took the chain off, but to line them up with the markings on the new chain, the arrows are more at like 730 and 130. Will this affect anything? The car fires right up with no rattles, and idles great, but when I rev it it kinda acts like a throttle position sensor and Boggs out just a bit. But it'll run fine, until, you get up to about 150 degrees on the gauge. As soon as you hit that temp, the car says engine reduces power and throws the map/mag correlation code, no throttle response at all, and idles like crap. I can clear the code, and it will fire back up and idle fine, and even take me a few feet up the road again before it kicks back into limp mode. Now I'm wondering, could I maybe have set the timing to top dead center intake, instead of true top dead center power stroke? I mean in theory it would still run because atmospheric pressure would make sure it got air and fuel and it still firing, but during at the intake valves are opening instead of while being shut. Does this make sense to anyone? Or should i look into a throttle body and electronic gas pedal? The throttle position sensor is mounted on the pedal, meaning the whole pedal needs replaced if it goes. I didn't think it would idle and run half decent if it was out of time, but I could be wrong. Someone please help me, I am stumped, and can't pay 250 for the throttle and throttle body just to find out that they aren't the problem. I should also mention I cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, but only recently found out the I can't move the butterfly by hand on an all electronic body, who who i did. But it still seems to operate fine as I can see it open as I press the pedal, harder I press, more it opens, so looks ok I guess? Also, I didn't not clean it until after reduced power and engine light came on and started its running like crap.

Last edited by jakebenson6669; 06-13-2017 at 06:15 PM. Reason: I should also mention.....
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:08 PM   #2
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Sounds like you did it without benefit of a shop manual.

This is an HHR forum, so the cars are not always the same. You don't tell us what year.

What is "map/mag correlation code". I don't even have a guess.

I am guessing that 150F is about the point the computer goes closed loop.
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:23 PM   #3
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Sounds like you did it without benefit of a shop manual.

This is an HHR forum, so the cars are not always the same. You don't tell us what year.

What is "map/mag correlation code". I don't even have a guess.

I am guessing that 150F is about the point the computer goes closed loop.
it is an 06 cobalt 2.2 ecotec 5spd. I understand the cars are different but cobalt owners are no help. It's a map/maf stupid autocorrect. Manifold absolute pressure sensor and mass air flow sensor aren't reading the same. Both are new. And yes the 150F is when the computer runs it's self check. Its a saturn motor. But the motors should all be about the same. The main question was about the timing being 360 degrees out. And whether it made sense to anyone that it could still run like that. I'm just confused. I don't mean to sound like a dick if I do sound like one.
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:28 PM   #4
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Sounds like you did it without benefit of a shop manual.

This is an HHR forum, so the cars are not always the same. You don't tell us what year.

What is "map/mag correlation code". I don't even have a guess.

I am guessing that 150F is about the point the computer goes closed loop.
also I did not have a shop manual, I used Google with a few different cross references to the " time" position of all the markings. But never once, of say a dozen sites, was there ever mention of true top dead center. This is just my theory after pondering the four stroke theory a while
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:42 PM   #5
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I have never heard of the code you are quoting, what is the number?

I found something that sound sort of like that, but it applies to supercharged cars. We don't have those.

Check your PM.
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:30 PM   #6
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Here are the timing marks

Name:  exh timing.PNG
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Size:  19.6 KBName:  timing intake.PNG
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Name:  crank.PNG
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Timing question-balance-chain.png
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:05 PM   #7
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thank you for the private message. The only other thing that leads me to the timing being 360 degrees out is that the timing marks all long up, but the intake diamond was at 10 o'clock on the exhaust cam, and the exhaust triangle is at 2 o'clock on the intake cam. With the notches in the cams it's the only way they would go on. But if the crank was out 360 degrees, it would only turn the cams 180, thus, maybe being my problem? It's just crazy that the car runs like this. No miss at idle. The map/maf correlation code is P0068. Along with the P0101, which is just maf, and P0106 which is just map.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:24 PM   #8
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thank you for the private message. The only other thing that leads me to the timing being 360 degrees out is that the timing marks all long up, but the intake diamond was at 10 o'clock on the exhaust cam, and the exhaust triangle is at 2 o'clock on the intake cam. With the notches in the cams it's the only way they would go on. But if the crank was out 360 degrees, it would only turn the cams 180, thus, maybe being my problem? It's just crazy that the car runs like this. No miss at idle. The map/maf correlation code is P0068. Along with the P0101, which is just maf, and P0106 which is just map.
Okay something sounds wrong here. Did you not rotate the assembly so that the marks were in the right spots before taking it all off? And you haven't said what position the crank mark was in. If it didn't look like the pics donbrew posted, then you didn't set the timing properly.

Another important question - did you release the tensioner before you closed the engine up?
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:43 PM   #9
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There is only one TDC on the crankshaft. However, the timing mark is at 4:00 the key is straight up

Use a 24 mm wrench on the hex flats to turn the cam shafts.

do NOT turn the crankshaft CC.

I don't know where you got your definition for the p0068. The p0101 and p0106 cause the p0068 and the eng reduced pwr. I suspect that somebody broke a wire.

They don't have anything directly to do with the timing chain.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0106
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0101

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Old 06-13-2017, 08:58 PM   #10
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Okay something sounds wrong here. Did you not rotate the assembly so that the marks were in the right spots before taking it all off? And you haven't said what position the crank mark was in. If it didn't look like the pics donbrew posted, then you didn't set the timing properly.

Another important question - did you release the tensioner before you closed the engine up?
the crank Mark was at five o'clock like it was supposed to be. I took everything apart and put back together without moving anything at all, the only difference in the procedure is the exhaust Mark was on the intake cam and intake Mark on exhaust cam. All marks in the right time though as far as clocks markings go. Would it still run being exactly 360 degrees out? Like. The intake valves open right after it sparks? No backfires through the intake though.
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