I would tend to agree... However (and I'm not taking sides), those original results were taken in February, when the climate was cooler. The wheels would make a difference in times, but I would think (since it's only a +1 conversion) ET would only differ by no more than half a second.

Either way people, either intake (and any others that will become available in the future), will be an upgrade over stock. The variations in performance for any of them should really only be important to folks who spend their time at dragstrips. Who've ripped out thier interiors, own a set of wrinkle-walls, (probably not an HHR owner).

For instance, I've got the AiRaid and the Gibson Catback exhaust. I should be putting another 10% more power to the ground than stock, right? Hell no, I've offset whatever power increases with 300lbs worth of audio. But, I'll be hard pressed to find another HHR around here with this intake and exhaust. And that's what it boils down to, am I wrong?

 

No! Everyone want's the best performance for their dollar though.

 

Using smaller diameter wheels/tires is an old trick to get a numerically higher drive ratio without changing the gears. But it also increases your RPM when cruising and ultimately decreases your MPG. I have the 17 inch factory wheels, and with out intake/exhaust mods clocked 0-60 in 8.40, 1/8 mile 10.77 @ 58.5 MPH. Using a formula, the projected 1/4 ET is 16.51 @ 73 MPH. This was in Feb, also. As soon as I can get the time, I will go to the strip and clock my car with the GTech to see how accurate it is. Then I can put my IMCO muffler on and see the improvement (followed by the CGS intake). While I am motivated by performance, I also confess to wanting to improve appearance, too. And I prever the clean look of the CGS.

 

Though I would have to assume Mike did a proper +1, therefore making that moot. The overall diameter of the tire is the same, therefore the final drive ratio is unchanged.



I am very curious about the results of this test. Usually one doesn't see dramatic improvements over factory times just by swapping the can. But of course, one usually doesn't have such a funky can from the factory, like the HHR's. I have dyno figures for Shnog while in stock trim, but nothing after the intake and exhaust mods. Unfortunately, the dyno I was using is no longer, (Lingenfelter C6 killed it) so I can't make a good comparison.

 

If we are talking looks IMO the AiRaid one looks bad ass and the CGS one looks a ricer fanboys wet dream.

 

Wrong. Never assume. My new tires are 3/4" taller than my stock tires. I went larger than a +1 size as I wanted to "stuff" the wheelwells for more of a slammed look. That, combined with the increased weight from the new wider wheels, makes a substantial difference - (it has slowed the car down). I'll let you know just how much that difference is when I weigh the wheel/tire combinations during swapping for the dyno tests.

 

I wouldnt say ricer, since hot rodders have been using simple looking air filters on carbs since the 50's. Think of the tube as a sideways tunnel ram

As for the Airaid-it looks like a no nonsense performance setup, reminding me of the type of setup used by Prostock to get air direct from their hood scoop. Unfortunately, the HHR has no hood scoop. And, if the preliminary test results are any indication then the CGS out performs it.

I like being able to see the engine. And, the Airaid's large box has to block the engine heat from rising and dissapting, as well as hindering air circulation, which would increase the temperature.

 

Well, if you want an Airaid - I've got one I'll sell you for $175 after the dyno testing! AND it's already assembled! (*That should be worth an extra $25 right there!). Funny, the size of the box they ship it in, they could have easily shipped it assembled instead of in pieces. But then...they would have had to charge you more!

 

And more of an ABS not-working-so-well look. And the my-speedo-isn't-reporting-correctly look. Without a reflash to compensate for those issues, you're hindering performance for aesthetics. For such a performance-oriented person, I expected differently. 3/4" does make a significant difference.

If they're only 17's, what size tire are you wearing on those shoes? Must be a lot of sidewall if you're tryin' to "stuff those wheelwells". Though I can understand wanting a 17" and a larger sidewall for comfort, but to go beyond the sidwall size that a factory 17" has must look... interesting.

 

a) Don't have ABS - never buy it OR traction control. I'm old school and those two items hinder my driving style. I don't consider them "performance" options at all.

b) I'd have to say that most of the cars I've owned (from my '57 Chevy to an '85 Jeep CJ-7), never had accurate speedometers. Sometimes changing to the tires you prefer does that. I'll get a reflash eventually, but I 'have other things to consider before soing so. The G-Tech takes care of those top-speed innacuracies for me.

I'm running Hankook H105's in a 225/50ZR17 at 25.9" tall with a 9.1" section width and 7.4" tread width. They are treadwear rated at 400 with Traction: "A" and Temperature "A." Speed rated ZR's ("W" -to 168mph for 3+ hours in testing) - top notch. These are also an "XL" (extra load), rated tire which has a stiffer sidewall with higher load carrying capabilities that provides a smooth "point-n-shoot" ride - without skinny 30 series damage to my rims.

Having managed several performance tire, speed & off road shops in my lifetime, I'm not worried about anyone else's opinions about my tire choices...

You might want to read about them: Hankook H105 Series

As far as performance. I like to drive fast. The increased height gives me more rollout on the highway, reducing the final drive ration and rpms. I'm only turning 3100rpm at 95mph - with plenty left. I like it like that. Around town in "I" (or any), gear it still runs great. To each his/her own...