Need to find some wires for Wideband Gauge
11-07-2012, 06:24 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
Need to find some wires for Wideband Gauge
OK so electrical is Not one of my passions. Actually, I HATE it! 
I want to hook up my GlowShift Wideband Gauge.
There is a little Brain Box that mounts under the dash and the wiring plugs into it.
Link to PDF Installation Instructions. Scroll down the page please to link.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Black...uel-Gauge.aspx
OK Basically I have Power Wire Harness to hook up into my '08 2.4 HHR's electrical system.
The Power wiring harness is
Black=Ground = Easy to do.
White=12v Ignition (Switched) Source (+)
Red=12v Constant (un-switched)Source (+)
Orange=12v Head Lamp (switched) Source (+), This controls the dimmer function to dim the gauge brightness by 30%.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Mount the controller inside the vehicle away from heat, water, moisture, dirt and all moving parts, in an easily accessible location. This allows for the unit to be accessible should calibration need to be performed.
3. Connect the red wire to a positive 12 volt constant (un-switched) source either directly to the battery or to a fuse panel on the vehicle. If wiring to an un-fused source, install a 3 amp fuse inline within 20 inches of the sources connection.
• You may obtain an optional "add a circuit" accessory. This component easily fits into your fuse panel and provides an additional fused power wire for accessories such as gauges. This is available at www.GlowShift.com as well as your local auto parts store.
4. The white wire should be connected to a positive 12 volt ignition (switched) source. It may be connected to the fuse panel, an accessory wire, or any positive 12 volt source that turns on and off with the ignition.
• If you have a turbo charger, the bung must be installed
Any electrical guru's want to help out, I really try Avoiding this electrical stuff at all costs. Should have learned long ago but just always avoided doing it whenever possible.
Sounds like I gotta hit cetain wires for certain things.
Thanks in advance.
I want to hook up my GlowShift Wideband Gauge.
There is a little Brain Box that mounts under the dash and the wiring plugs into it.
Link to PDF Installation Instructions. Scroll down the page please to link.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Black...uel-Gauge.aspx
OK Basically I have Power Wire Harness to hook up into my '08 2.4 HHR's electrical system.
The Power wiring harness is
Black=Ground = Easy to do.
White=12v Ignition (Switched) Source (+)
Red=12v Constant (un-switched)Source (+)
Orange=12v Head Lamp (switched) Source (+), This controls the dimmer function to dim the gauge brightness by 30%.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Mount the controller inside the vehicle away from heat, water, moisture, dirt and all moving parts, in an easily accessible location. This allows for the unit to be accessible should calibration need to be performed.
3. Connect the red wire to a positive 12 volt constant (un-switched) source either directly to the battery or to a fuse panel on the vehicle. If wiring to an un-fused source, install a 3 amp fuse inline within 20 inches of the sources connection.
• You may obtain an optional "add a circuit" accessory. This component easily fits into your fuse panel and provides an additional fused power wire for accessories such as gauges. This is available at www.GlowShift.com as well as your local auto parts store.
4. The white wire should be connected to a positive 12 volt ignition (switched) source. It may be connected to the fuse panel, an accessory wire, or any positive 12 volt source that turns on and off with the ignition.
5.
Connect the black wire to any good (unpainted) ground connection. You may also route a wire directly to the negative side of the vehicle’s battery.
Connect the black wire to any good (unpainted) ground connection. You may also route a wire directly to the negative side of the vehicle’s battery.
6.
The orange wire should be connected to a positive 12 volt switched source (head lamp). This controls the dimmer function to dim the gauge brightness by 30%. This step is optional.
7.
Install the provided LSU 4.9 Sensor by welding the matching exhaust bung to the exhaust pipe.
• Make sure the location of the bung is no less than a minimum of 18 inches after the exhaust ports.
• If you have a turbo charger, the bung must be installed
no less than a minimum of 36 inches after the exhaust ports, but before the catalytic converter. This also applies if you use unleaded race fuel.
• The bung must be positioned in such a way that the sensor is at a minimum of 10 degrees from a horizontal position with the electrical connection up to prevent a collection of liquid at the element during the warm up phase. SEE DIAGRAM ABOVE.
8. Next, route and secure the sensor wire harness from the sensor into the vehicle, close to the controller’s location. Be sure to use a grommet when routing the wires through the firewall to protect them from stripping.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Be sure all of your wiring is correct for proper gauge operation
8. Next, route and secure the sensor wire harness from the sensor into the vehicle, close to the controller’s location. Be sure to use a grommet when routing the wires through the firewall to protect them from stripping.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Be sure all of your wiring is correct for proper gauge operation
Any electrical guru's want to help out, I really try Avoiding this electrical stuff at all costs. Should have learned long ago but just always avoided doing it whenever possible.
Sounds like I gotta hit cetain wires for certain things.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by American & Proud; 11-08-2012 at 11:20 AM.
11-08-2012, 06:24 PM
#3
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,671
Not exactly what you are asking for, but all of those are available at the fuse box(es). I don't have time right now to check out Mitchell onDemand for exact colors & locations. I';ll try a bit later.
11-08-2012, 08:29 PM
#4
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Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
Thanks.
The orange wire is supposed to Dim the actual Gauge when your headlights are on so it's not so brite at night. But with daylight running lights I havent a clue what wire I should try tapping into. Plus the other 2 needed.
At $200.00 a gauge I don't want to f*ck it up.
11-09-2012, 05:57 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
I asked someone on the cobaltSS forum who had a glowshift wideband and he responded with-
"wire the white to the wiper fuse in your fuse box inside the car.
wire red to a constant power source like a battery post
orange needs to be wired into the wire that goes to the dimmer on your car."
But he had no idea about an HHR, thats how he did his in the Cobalt he had,
But hooking the Orange(optional) wire into the dash dimmer the gauge would only Dim 30% when you manually dim your dash lights.
Not exactly as it should be, which is dim automatically when the headlights are on at night.
Anyone have some ideas???
Thanks
"wire the white to the wiper fuse in your fuse box inside the car.
wire red to a constant power source like a battery post
orange needs to be wired into the wire that goes to the dimmer on your car."
But he had no idea about an HHR, thats how he did his in the Cobalt he had,
But hooking the Orange(optional) wire into the dash dimmer the gauge would only Dim 30% when you manually dim your dash lights.
Not exactly as it should be, which is dim automatically when the headlights are on at night.
Anyone have some ideas???
Thanks
11-09-2012, 09:37 PM
#6
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,671
With the way the DRLs are set up. I'm guessing just leave the orange wire capped off, cause it is probably not possible.
I sent you a PM concerning wiring diagrams.
I sent you a PM concerning wiring diagrams.
Last edited by donbrew; 11-09-2012 at 09:48 PM. Reason: addition
11-09-2012, 11:12 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
I will leave it off for now since it is optional, I will call glow shifts tech support and see what they have to say about it.
DRL's have been on most cars several years now right?
Thanks
11-10-2012, 09:57 AM
#8
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,671
The ones you already have are probably the same as mine, but I seem to remember there was a color code change from 2006 to 2008. The important part is the color codes of the wires, pick one that is always hot and one that is only hot when the ignition is on. The orange one is a problem because of the DRLs, however, the dash lights do dim when the headlights go on so maybe hooking to one of those wires would work?
When you get into the BCM area, you do not have to disconnect the connector, just strip back enough of the wire conduit to identify and splice into the correct wires, it is very tight delicate work, but possible. I think that there are some pics in the "how to add remote start without AP3" thread.
When you get into the BCM area, you do not have to disconnect the connector, just strip back enough of the wire conduit to identify and splice into the correct wires, it is very tight delicate work, but possible. I think that there are some pics in the "how to add remote start without AP3" thread.
11-10-2012, 12:16 PM
#9
Rest In Peace
Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
The ones you already have are probably the same as mine, but I seem to remember there was a color code change from 2006 to 2008. The important part is the color codes of the wires, pick one that is always hot and one that is only hot when the ignition is on. The orange one is a problem because of the DRLs, however, the dash lights do dim when the headlights go on so maybe hooking to one of those wires would work?
When you get into the BCM area, you do not have to disconnect the connector, just strip back enough of the wire conduit to identify and splice into the correct wires, it is very tight delicate work, but possible. I think that there are some pics in the "how to add remote start without AP3" thread.
When you get into the BCM area, you do not have to disconnect the connector, just strip back enough of the wire conduit to identify and splice into the correct wires, it is very tight delicate work, but possible. I think that there are some pics in the "how to add remote start without AP3" thread.
I watched some glow shift install vids they have (no wideband gauge install tho) he was using a Power Probe tool.
Did some searches and ended up buying the Power Probe III. Should be here Tuesday.
