Need to find some wires for Wideband Gauge
11-11-2012, 11:00 AM
#11
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Here is a handy "always hot" option; the cigar lighter. As for the "switched" I am still looking for a handy one. I don't think the probe thingy is going to help you any more than the wiring color code IDs.
Any RD/WH wire is "battery positve voltage" i.e. always hot. I am not sure but, Try PK or OG or BRN for switched, there, you can use the probe. And, of course any BLK is ground.
Be sure to check for 12V v. signal level voltage. A lot of those wires are labelled as "signal", not sure what they mean.
Or, another suggestion is to look at the radio power connections, there is usually a hot and a switched there.
Come to think, I am guessing that the switched wire is for the HO2 sensor. If it is then you could tap into the positive wire on the existing HO2 sensor(s). HO2 mean Heated O2 sensor, in other words there is a heating element in it, thus the need for positive voltage, don't know if it's 12V or not.
Any RD/WH wire is "battery positve voltage" i.e. always hot. I am not sure but, Try PK or OG or BRN for switched, there, you can use the probe. And, of course any BLK is ground.
Be sure to check for 12V v. signal level voltage. A lot of those wires are labelled as "signal", not sure what they mean.
Or, another suggestion is to look at the radio power connections, there is usually a hot and a switched there.
Come to think, I am guessing that the switched wire is for the HO2 sensor. If it is then you could tap into the positive wire on the existing HO2 sensor(s). HO2 mean Heated O2 sensor, in other words there is a heating element in it, thus the need for positive voltage, don't know if it's 12V or not.
11-11-2012, 05:28 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
Here is a handy "always hot" option; the cigar lighter. As for the "switched" I am still looking for a handy one. I don't think the probe thingy is going to help you any more than the wiring color code IDs.
Any RD/WH wire is "battery positve voltage" i.e. always hot. I am not sure but, Try PK or OG or BRN for switched, there, you can use the probe. And, of course any BLK is ground.
Be sure to check for 12V v. signal level voltage. A lot of those wires are labelled as "signal", not sure what they mean.
Or, another suggestion is to look at the radio power connections, there is usually a hot and a switched there.
Come to think, I am guessing that the switched wire is for the HO2 sensor. If it is then you could tap into the positive wire on the existing HO2 sensor(s). HO2 mean Heated O2 sensor, in other words there is a heating element in it, thus the need for positive voltage, don't know if it's 12V or not.
Any RD/WH wire is "battery positve voltage" i.e. always hot. I am not sure but, Try PK or OG or BRN for switched, there, you can use the probe. And, of course any BLK is ground.
Be sure to check for 12V v. signal level voltage. A lot of those wires are labelled as "signal", not sure what they mean.
Or, another suggestion is to look at the radio power connections, there is usually a hot and a switched there.
Come to think, I am guessing that the switched wire is for the HO2 sensor. If it is then you could tap into the positive wire on the existing HO2 sensor(s). HO2 mean Heated O2 sensor, in other words there is a heating element in it, thus the need for positive voltage, don't know if it's 12V or not.
Looked to be a pretty handy Tool. Watch the video here, he is using one without a screen.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/GlowS...l-Support.aspx
Scroll down to the vids, hit the second Tab to see the power probe he is using.
I got the Power Probe III that has a small screen as well.
Tool Junkie here, so it will come in handy.
I'll be at the shop at 8am and my mechanic buddy is gonna check it out. I'll relay all suggestions to him and see what we come up with.
The O2 is heated I believe, but the harness for it goes through the firewall and just plugs into that central Box shown in the pic.
It'll be done in the morning, I have everything run through the firewall and the gauge is in place so just need to hook up the white red and optional orange dimming wire.
Ill let you know how it goes.
Thanks.
11-13-2012, 02:24 AM
#13
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Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
Went to the shop this morning, my buddy had one of his mechanics look things over and he felt we should hook into the underhood fuse box.
With the little info on the Orange wire thats given we are gonna try the low beam fuse.
I brought 2 add a fuses with me, but with the fuses set to plug in on the side we can't fit them in, need a Top fuse add a fuse but I could not find one locally or through Amazon.
He used a Power Probe III today, I had to laugh and said hey I just ordered one of those.
Mine got here this afternoon.
Anyways I know were to hook things up just some relays are in the way to fit the add a circut/fuse in place. Was Cold out today so I did not mess with it when I got home, temps are supposed to be in the 40's this week so I will mess with it today once it wams up a bit.
I may look at that inside fuse box a bit more for hooking it up. I'd have to drill a hole in the under hood fuse box lid to run the cable in and still have to split it open to run the Ground outside under the hood, not really liking that, want to keep the engine compartment as neat and clean looking as I can.
With the little info on the Orange wire thats given we are gonna try the low beam fuse.
I brought 2 add a fuses with me, but with the fuses set to plug in on the side we can't fit them in, need a Top fuse add a fuse but I could not find one locally or through Amazon.
He used a Power Probe III today, I had to laugh and said hey I just ordered one of those.
Mine got here this afternoon.
Anyways I know were to hook things up just some relays are in the way to fit the add a circut/fuse in place. Was Cold out today so I did not mess with it when I got home, temps are supposed to be in the 40's this week so I will mess with it today once it wams up a bit.
I may look at that inside fuse box a bit more for hooking it up. I'd have to drill a hole in the under hood fuse box lid to run the cable in and still have to split it open to run the Ground outside under the hood, not really liking that, want to keep the engine compartment as neat and clean looking as I can.
11-18-2012, 10:43 PM
#16
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Join Date: 06-13-2010
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,301
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