2.4L Performance Tech 16 valve 172 hp EcoTec with 162 lb-ft of torque

new & old dyno results

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Old 10-02-2008, 04:50 PM
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new & old dyno results

new & old dyno results

One has only todays nitrous run, the other has all four; today's with and w/o, and my first results with and w/o.

I was surprised that there was so little difference in the base. I had switched from CGS to GMPP and also switched to iridium plugs. I did pick up a couple HP on the low end, but that could have just been the weather.

Nice gains from going to a 75 shot though.

If you have technical questions about these, you're going to have to ask someone else. I just read the large print, see the flow of the lines, and listen to what I'm told. I have no skills in anylizing this steff!




Here's the original two by themselves.

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Old 10-02-2008, 07:59 PM
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You said there was no real difference between the CGS and the GMPP? I just spoke with CGS today regarding the code (they were unaware of the problem for non SS cars). They are posting dyno results in the next couple of days regarding CGS vs stock intake. But they claim 11-12 HP gain. They had the same feelings I did about the GMPP/Airraid/K&N box type (box on top of engine heats air, no direct flow into cleaner, small inlet of tube by hole in fenderwell, and the bends would impede air flow). They also said that if the air is hot due to not circulating when the vehicle is stopped, who cares? You do not need the HP at a traffic light. Once moving, you have the cooler air flowing both into the hole in the fenderwell as well as around the engine. The CGS filter will suck in air all around it, not just via a small hole aimed at the fenderwell.

That said, your nitrous idea looks great. Most of the time driving, you do not need the extra HP so forced air is not utilized anyway. Here in NYC, I rarely ever floor it.
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:59 PM
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Lee.....

You are mistaken about the air intake in the fenderwell. The hole that you see when looking into the fenderwell is for access to a motor mount bolt.

The air for the intake is captured from under the car and in front of the radiator. It travels between sheet metal components and enters through, what you believe is the intake hole UNDER THE HOOD, then through the hose/tubing.

That's why JoeR and others indicate the OEM is ALREADY A COLD AIR INTAKE.
Could it be better......you bet.
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:42 AM
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hmmm this will be a good thread i believe.
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:45 AM
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How can you switch to iridum spark plugs if it already comes from factory with iridum tip plugs?
Info from Lone Ranger:
2006 model yr
2.2L AC 41-105, iridium tip plug

2.4L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2007 model yr

2.2L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2.4L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2008 model yr

2.0L turbo engine |no spark plug data|

2.2L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2.4L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by shaginwgn
How can you switch to iridum spark plugs if it already comes from factory with iridum tip plugs?
Info from Lone Ranger:
2006 model yr
2.2L AC 41-105, iridium tip plug

2.4L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2007 model yr

2.2L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2.4L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2008 model yr

2.0L turbo engine |no spark plug data|

2.2L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug

2.4L AC 41-103, iridium tip plug
Didn't know that. It was suggested by another HHR owner running nitrous the the NGK plugs were better than the oem.
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Lee3333
You said there was no real difference between the CGS and the GMPP? I just spoke with CGS today regarding the code (they were unaware of the problem for non SS cars). They are posting dyno results in the next couple of days regarding CGS vs stock intake. But they claim 11-12 HP gain. They had the same feelings I did about the GMPP/Airraid/K&N box type (box on top of engine heats air, no direct flow into cleaner, small inlet of tube by hole in fenderwell, and the bends would impede air flow). They also said that if the air is hot due to not circulating when the vehicle is stopped, who cares? You do not need the HP at a traffic light. Once moving, you have the cooler air flowing both into the hole in the fenderwell as well as around the engine. The CGS filter will suck in air all around it, not just via a small hole aimed at the fenderwell.

That said, your nitrous idea looks great. Most of the time driving, you do not need the extra HP so forced air is not utilized anyway. Here in NYC, I rarely ever floor it.
I gained close to 2hp at the high point with the GMPP, however the difference over the CGS was more at lower rpms.

IMO, any intake will not perform to its potential on a dyno. The idea is for them to work best while moving, so any discussion about that is pretty meaningless. Especially when they are not done under the same exact conditions.
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Old 10-03-2008, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
Lee.....

You are mistaken about the air intake in the fenderwell. The hole that you see when looking into the fenderwell is for access to a motor mount bolt.

The air for the intake is captured from under the car and in front of the radiator. It travels between sheet metal components and enters through, what you believe is the intake hole UNDER THE HOOD, then through the hose/tubing.

That's why JoeR and others indicate the OEM is ALREADY A COLD AIR INTAKE.
Could it be better......you bet.
To be honest, I am just going by what everybody has been saying. I changed my intake over two years ago and remember the factory one had a snorkle that went to the fenderwell but never examined any opening there. And while I have always intended to check it out, the filter blocks seeing it and I am too lazy to remove the filter just to look. That said, I found it hard to believe that much cold air could be coming from it. My belief is that most of the air going to the filter is coming from the engine compartment. While sitting at a light or in traffic, it certainly is hot. But once you are moving, between the airflow and the engine fan it should be about the same temperature as the outside air.

If you want a true cold air package like they did for racing, get a box with dry ice. Other than that, I think the most efficient way to do it would be a hoodscoop. Anything with hoses and tubes will have problems due to restrictions from the bends.

Lets get real here, though. We are not talking about a race car or even a high performance sports car meant for cruising at breakneck speeds. Please, nobody get mad at me, but the HHR is really just a nice, functional economy car meant to transport people and cargo from place to place. Remember, it is just a fancy body on the Cobalt which is marketed as an econocar.
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Old 10-03-2008, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Lee3333
Lets get real here, though. We are not talking about a race car or even a high performance sports car meant for cruising at breakneck speeds. Please, nobody get mad at me, but the HHR is really just a nice, functional economy car meant to transport people and cargo from place to place. Remember, it is just a fancy body on the Cobalt which is marketed as an econocar.
One of the most honest and true statements I seen on this forum in many moons!
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:57 PM
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I have heard that iridium plugs are terrible for nitrous applications, and copper was highly recommended. Did you tune for the nitrous? Are the plugs colder plugs?
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