Real cold air
08-20-2006, 12:58 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-05-2006
Location: Charlotte, North Carolina
Posts: 233
Originally Posted by Lee3333
I was looking over the way CJ did his cold air hose, and realized that if anyone has the guts, the way to go for a true cold air/ram air set up would be to cut a 2.5 or 3 inch hole next to the driving light. It would be a simple run up to the center of the Outlaw filter without many bends. You could fabricate something with a funnel and maybe a wire mesh speaker grill, or use a setup like the 'Tuners' use. It would be very functional and look like a performance setup. Now, cutting a hole in the big front panal would take balls.
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Let us know your progress.
08-20-2006, 12:59 PM
#33
Banned
Join Date: 10-14-2005
Location: Rochester,N.Y.
Posts: 9,121
From wikipedia about CAIs :
All cold air intakes operate on the principle of increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion with fuel. Because cooler air has more density for a given volume, cold air intakes generally work by providing cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. However, the term "cold air intake" is often used to describe other methods of increasing oxygen to an engine, which may even increase the temperature of the air coming into an engine.
Some strategies used in designing cold-air intakes are:
increasing the diameter of the air intake, allowing increased airflow.
smoothing the interior of the intake to reduce air resistance.
providing a more direct route to the air intake.
tuning the length of the intake to provide the most airflow at certain RPMs.
using a more efficient air filter
It's really not rocket science guys and there is plenty of info to back it up but I'm not going to waste my time digging it up for you. Do your own research and you'll find out smooth tubing is way better than rippled in terms of air flow.
All cold air intakes operate on the principle of increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion with fuel. Because cooler air has more density for a given volume, cold air intakes generally work by providing cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. However, the term "cold air intake" is often used to describe other methods of increasing oxygen to an engine, which may even increase the temperature of the air coming into an engine.
Some strategies used in designing cold-air intakes are:
increasing the diameter of the air intake, allowing increased airflow.
smoothing the interior of the intake to reduce air resistance.
providing a more direct route to the air intake.
tuning the length of the intake to provide the most airflow at certain RPMs.
using a more efficient air filter
It's really not rocket science guys and there is plenty of info to back it up but I'm not going to waste my time digging it up for you. Do your own research and you'll find out smooth tubing is way better than rippled in terms of air flow.
08-20-2006, 01:01 PM
#34
Platinum Member
Join Date: 05-09-2006
Location: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 6,805
"Black"....
I take CH's side on this. Just because of common sense. Smooth would be better that "rippled", if you think about wind turbulance.
Also, he's not saying rippled will not work, just that smooth is better for a COLD AIR RAM INTAKE SYSTEM. All Formula 1 cars and all the "top end" vehicles I have seen use custom smooth tubing...because of efficientcy (admittedly they probably can afford it, also). NASCAR vehicles used the most direct route...the windshield and cowling....look at the NASCAR Monte Carlo you posted.
CH....
Stay posted.....I almost have a system designed and created that you are looking for....guaranteed CAI with RAM (thanks to some very special "Friends"). Trials and readings are going on now.
I take CH's side on this. Just because of common sense. Smooth would be better that "rippled", if you think about wind turbulance.
Also, he's not saying rippled will not work, just that smooth is better for a COLD AIR RAM INTAKE SYSTEM. All Formula 1 cars and all the "top end" vehicles I have seen use custom smooth tubing...because of efficientcy (admittedly they probably can afford it, also). NASCAR vehicles used the most direct route...the windshield and cowling....look at the NASCAR Monte Carlo you posted.
CH....
Stay posted.....I almost have a system designed and created that you are looking for....guaranteed CAI with RAM (thanks to some very special "Friends"). Trials and readings are going on now.
08-20-2006, 01:04 PM
#35
Banned
Join Date: 10-14-2005
Location: Rochester,N.Y.
Posts: 9,121
Originally Posted by Snoopy
CH....
Stay posted.....I almost have a system designed and created that you are looking for....guaranteed CAI with RAM (thanks to some very special "Friends"). Trials and readings are going on now.
Stay posted.....I almost have a system designed and created that you are looking for....guaranteed CAI with RAM (thanks to some very special "Friends"). Trials and readings are going on now.
I was kind of hoping you would chime in on this thread. 
08-20-2006, 02:26 PM
#40
Platinum Member
Join Date: 05-09-2006
Location: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 6,805
O'k, I'm going to try this....on CAI and/or RAM
What I have learned from personal trial an error and from "friends"...
It's a b***h, to manage on the HHR. To manage cooler/colder air into the "system", heat needs to by removed from the engine compartment or air needs to be extracted outside that compartment at very rapid rates (this is the method i have chosen).
The stock intake, at the passenger wheel well, is adequate and meets "requirements". It essentially is "sucking" whatever the engine requires. But if additional air flow is needed (increased performance, etc), a different or larger venue is needed which provides air at increased volumes (and possible pressures).
The smoother the tube intake the more efficient the air flow (smoother, in this case, meaning no bends). But again, smooth tubing in place of rippled makes sense, also.
If tubing is used in the engine compartment...shorter and straighter is better. With secondary considerations of insulated tubing if length is not "controlled". Shorter appears, at this time, to support more efficient cooler air use.
If smooth tubing is used before the MAF, a MINIMAL amount of bends can be used to "tune" the intake to a specific RPM range (CGS ?).
Without "hacking" the HHR, RAM CAI will only prove valuable above certain speeds (because of air flow dynamics and vehicle design). CAI alone, may be valuable below these determined speeds.
I'm providing this information without bias and based on readings of electronic equipment loaned or borrowed by me and/or provided by some friends. Some minimal tests were conducted on my vehicle some were performed on other vehicles in the same configuration. I'm only providing the basics, at this time, and if this research and trial works favorably I will share all the info, data, and doc.'s, with no hitches (probably in the Dungeon, however), for other members to use.
Oh, and cooler air, in the air/fuel mixture (not to be confused with engine temperature), WILL provide increased performance.
I am open for suggestions from ANYONE....more, the better...kind of like a Cray Supercomputer. Let's Crunch..
What I have learned from personal trial an error and from "friends"...
It's a b***h, to manage on the HHR. To manage cooler/colder air into the "system", heat needs to by removed from the engine compartment or air needs to be extracted outside that compartment at very rapid rates (this is the method i have chosen).
The stock intake, at the passenger wheel well, is adequate and meets "requirements". It essentially is "sucking" whatever the engine requires. But if additional air flow is needed (increased performance, etc), a different or larger venue is needed which provides air at increased volumes (and possible pressures).
The smoother the tube intake the more efficient the air flow (smoother, in this case, meaning no bends). But again, smooth tubing in place of rippled makes sense, also.
If tubing is used in the engine compartment...shorter and straighter is better. With secondary considerations of insulated tubing if length is not "controlled". Shorter appears, at this time, to support more efficient cooler air use.
If smooth tubing is used before the MAF, a MINIMAL amount of bends can be used to "tune" the intake to a specific RPM range (CGS ?).
Without "hacking" the HHR, RAM CAI will only prove valuable above certain speeds (because of air flow dynamics and vehicle design). CAI alone, may be valuable below these determined speeds.
I'm providing this information without bias and based on readings of electronic equipment loaned or borrowed by me and/or provided by some friends. Some minimal tests were conducted on my vehicle some were performed on other vehicles in the same configuration. I'm only providing the basics, at this time, and if this research and trial works favorably I will share all the info, data, and doc.'s, with no hitches (probably in the Dungeon, however), for other members to use.
Oh, and cooler air, in the air/fuel mixture (not to be confused with engine temperature), WILL provide increased performance.
I am open for suggestions from ANYONE....more, the better...kind of like a Cray Supercomputer. Let's Crunch..