I know you're in SoCal, so you don't have to worry about cold weather, but the motor specifically calls for 5W30. Why do you use 10W30?

Are you using Redline oil in the HHR?

 

Hib....

Thanks for the explanation and correcting my misunderstanding.

I do want to correct one item, however. I did notice your use of "I" in the post and did understand that it was for YOUR OWN APPLICATION. In my post, I didn't express it correctly to indicate that people will apply your useage guideline to their own use......just because of who you are. That was my point.

You did correct that idea in the last part of your last post.

Again, thanks...

 

Hib,
I just posted OEM Oil monitor info. Go to: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/general-hhr-4/gm-oil-monitor-oil-changing-10880/

 

Ok, So.Cal. in the summer is warm, but winter just outside Los Angeles (15 miles) gets below freezing at night. 10w30 would not be a good idea January-March. I've seen a can seize in the head with a guy using 10w30 in the winter. 70-80's during the day, but -32 at night happens.

 

I have no worries with 10W30. In west-centrol Wyoming in January I've tested it in other light-duty engines, notably the 4.3 V6 in an S10 Blazer for cold starts---truck sits two nights--in -20 deg F weather. The engine cranks fine, starts quickly and oil pressure builds fast.

Now, if we were talking colder than that at start-up along with the temp never going over zero at mid-day, and that kind of weather persisting for a while, then maybe I'd go to a 5W.

As far as a can seizing in a head in the winter w. 10W30 oil, I'm not sure what you mean by a "can" but the difference in vis between 5W and 10W isn't much. In addition, 10W oils were the only thing you could get prior to about 1980 and people have been operating engines in places like southern Canada, Minnesota, the U.P. of Michigan and Main, for years doing cold starts with 10W oils. I'm sorry, but I'm must not buying.

The main reason GM mandates 5W30 in virtually all light vehicles today is the reduced friction they provide and the gain that gets it in fuel economy.

I think this discussion of 5W30 vs 10W30 is more an issue of preference rather than an actual difference from a technical perspective.

Now, if we were talking about winter weather and a 5W30 and a 20W50 or a 5W30 and a straight 30 then I'd agree with you completely.

Bottom line, in the 2.4 Ecotec in my HHR, I run 10W30 and about the only reason I'd go to a 5W30 is if I moved to northern Alaska.

I've got about another 8000 miles on this crankcase load and when I change, I'll post the oil analysis data and a synopsis of what the data means.

 

You're suppose to change the oil??? Oh no!!! (That explains all the grey smoke coming out of my '72 Gremlin when I start it...)

 

Back around 35 Years ago I bought a "Well Used" Rambler Station Wagon for going back and forth to work. I never got to change the oil, I just added a quart every 100 miles or so!

 

im new to this site and was just wondering what is the deal with performance aftermarket parts for the 2.4 hhr i cant find much other then exhaust and intakes. i bought my hhr in california and now living in ny. iv been searching the net for a turbo kit or supercharger, header cam anything to boost the girls performance. i also found a jet performance module thats it. as of now i only have the cgs intake and highflow muffler. i need more does anyone know where to look? thanks

 

For biggest bang for the buck, have the computer tuned. I had mine done in NJ by a vendor here called TuneTime Performance. Compared to the 'old days', it is like changing carb, cam, shift kit, recurving the distributer, etc.

 

When you determined that reprogramming was the biggest bang for the buck, how did you do that...through track testing, chassis dyno testing...what? Also, what were your before and after performance data?