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Compact powered subs w/stock HU?

Old Jul 20, 2007 | 07:00 AM
  #1  
06Daytona's Avatar
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Question Compact powered subs w/stock HU?

Sorry if this has been covered before, but I need to ask as I don't know that much about car audio.

I'm considering adding this to my factory (non-Pioneer) head unit. -
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Hk6irYT...0&I=023THB200A



Questions...
1) Is it possible to add something like this to the stock (non-Pioneer) HU?
2) How would I add this to my stock HU? And additional items required?

Comments...
3) I know this isn't "high end". I've have had vehicles in the past with two 10" subs, so I know this isn't going to compare. I just would like to add a little "bump".
4) I was thinking that since this has a low profile, that I could place it in the back just above the spare tire and leave the cargo board up high. Then when I needed additional cargo space, I would lower the board back down without any clearance issues.
5) If this works, I may attempt this install myself, but I would also need help with panel removal to run all the wires.


Thanks in advance for any suggestions/comments!

Last edited by 06Daytona; Jul 20, 2007 at 12:08 PM. Reason: added "non-Pioneer"
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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You can use the high input and conect to your stock amplifier thats if you have the pioneer 7 speaker system. Thats what the car audio shop did tell I got my new head unit. But my is to replace the headunit.
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by shaginwgn
You can use the high input and conect to your stock amplifier thats if you have the pioneer 7 speaker system. Thats what the car audio shop did tell I got my new head unit. But my is to replace the headunit.
I forgot to mention that I do not have the Pioneer speaker system.

Replacing the head unit is not an option for me right now.

Last edited by 06Daytona; Jul 20, 2007 at 12:09 PM. Reason: added second line
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 12:16 PM
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In that case you might wanna look at this thread https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/audio-video-17/instructions-install-aftermarket-amp-sub-2891/

Also I made my amp rack to fit in between the spare tire and shelf so it is hidden.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 12:52 PM
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Thanks for that link, shaginwgn!

I copied the "how to" info here as well so others could see it.

Originally Posted by cshaberts
I recently bought my HHR, and could not find any tips to install my aftermarket amp and sub, this post is to help every one else interested in installing your sound system with out changing out your head unit.

**I am a service consultant for a Chevy dealership, this process will work, and will not cause any damage to your car. Some of my info i got from service information on GM dealer world. (which wires to use)

1. Remove kick plate on passenger side front door.
2. Pull back carpet.
3. You will See factory wiring harness running under carpet, with razor blade, slice tape wrapped around wiring harness. (Be Careful not to cut wires!)
4. The wires your looking for are a light blue (-) and a dark blue (+).
5. Using Butt connector, tie in speaker wire to the dark blue and light blue factory wire. (note: there are two dark blue wires, use the skinny one)
6. Make sure to remember which wire you hook up as negative, i used the silver wire as - and the copper as +.

7. Next you want to hook up your remote wire, usually blue wire.
8. Pull off fuse cover, located on passenger side front, inner panel.
9. attach a spade to the end of remote wire.
10. put spade in empty fuse slot.
11. next you want to run speaker wire and remote under trim to rear of vehicle.

12. remove spare tire cover. Hook power cable to positive battery post, and negative to ground next to battery.

13. you will need an adapter that switches your speaker cable over to RCA.
14. connect your adapter to speaker wire run from front of vehicle.
15. after that it is self explanatory.

This job should take you between 45 min and two hours depending on your skill level, it is very easy and an inexperienced person can easily hook up. Don't pay any one, it is a wast of money. Hope this was help to you.
For #10 - Any fuse slot will work?
For #13 - Can someone point me to the adapter that switches speaker cable to RCA connectors? Are these expensive?
I guess I'd need one of the amp install kits too.
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 06Daytona
Can someone point me to the adapter that switches speaker cable to RCA connectors? Are these expensive?
I guess I'd need one of the amp install kits too.

I'd just cut an RCA cable and splice it together, but you can buy RCA 'ends' at RadioShack or similar stores... should be under $5
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashMan82
I'd just cut an RCA cable and splice it together, but you can buy RCA 'ends' at RadioShack or similar stores... should be under $5
Someone on here fried their amp that way. It's a bad idea when you can pick up a converter for like $10-$20 just about anywhere.
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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do you have kids? carry rear passengers? if not, you may be able to fit this under the front seats where it would make a decent impact. buy a Line Output Converter and splice it into the rear speaker outputs from the deck (pm me i can help on that). do not tap a fuse, you should tap the 10/12 guage pink wire in near rhe fuse box harness and run a 5 amp fusible link on it. i can show you how to do that as well.
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by quest51210
do you have kids? carry rear passengers? if not, you may be able to fit this under the front seats where it would make a decent impact. buy a Line Output Converter and splice it into the rear speaker outputs from the deck (pm me i can help on that). do not tap a fuse, you should tap the 10/12 guage pink wire in near rhe fuse box harness and run a 5 amp fusible link on it. i can show you how to do that as well.
That's what I'll be doing... much cleaner and less chance for error really...

Someone on here fried their amp that way. It's a bad idea when you can pick up a converter for like $10-$20 just about anywhere.
Ouch... that must have been pretty screwed up because even if they were shorted then it should just pop, spike the amp and (hopefully) blow the fuse you have inline... I've done some pretty stupid things and gone through a lot of fuses but never damaged the amps Luck I guess
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:13 PM
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for the fuse, I would use slot number 21. It is a remote power meaning it will be on when key is in the accessory or run position.

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