Factory Sub insulation opinions
#1
Factory Sub insulation opinions
Well I have ordered up all my parts and plan on working on the install of everything over Thanksgiving week. After deciding on a Kicker CVT8 in the factory box, I would like some opinions on the best way to increase performance of the factory box. I plan on using some bondo to fill in the factory screw hole on the back, and the next plan was to attach dynomat to all the areas I can reach inside the box then spray adhesive throughout the box and attach polyfill. On the outside of the box more dynomat and dynomat the area around where the box attaches to the car. Is this a bad idea to dynomat and polyfil the inside of the box? Stereo guys please give any insight you can provide. Here is what the rest of the system is going to be
Pioneer Double Din AVH-P4000DVD from previous Car
Boston Acoustics S60's components up front, S65 coaxials in the rear
Kenwood KAC-8104D For the Sub
Kicker CVT8 4ohm in factory box
Factory amp running the door speakers (hopefully has enough juice for the speakers)
Dynomat the doors
Pics once complete
Pioneer Double Din AVH-P4000DVD from previous Car
Boston Acoustics S60's components up front, S65 coaxials in the rear
Kenwood KAC-8104D For the Sub
Kicker CVT8 4ohm in factory box
Factory amp running the door speakers (hopefully has enough juice for the speakers)
Dynomat the doors
Pics once complete
#2
I also have the Kicker CVT8 sub in my factory box. Filled with pollyfill and lined with dynomet inside and out. I'm powering mine with an Alpine amp putting out 220 watts. I have sound deadner on my floor and doors also. Can't think of anything else you could do to make it better.
#3
I also have the Kicker CVT8 sub in my factory box. Filled with pollyfill and lined with dynomet inside and out. I'm powering mine with an Alpine amp putting out 220 watts. I have sound deadner on my floor and doors also. Can't think of anything else you could do to make it better.
Approx how full did you fill the box with the polyfill? Also what did you seal the factory bolt hole in the rear with, and was the sub a direct fit, or did you need to make a spacer, or have any issues with the cone making contact with the factory pioneer grill? Looks like you have a sweet setup from your signature. Do you have the onstar setup? Curious how you rigged your amp to the door speakers?
Thanks
#4
i cant comment on the fit of the sub, but as far as the box goes. dynamat or similar on outside (be sure not to add too much such that it wont fit) and instead of dynamat on inside i would recommend a thin foam. preferably closed cell and then your polyfill. attach both with a spray adhesive. what this will do is damp your reflections on the inside of the box. dynamat will only damp the vibrations, not the sound itself.
#5
I used sound deadener around the outside of my factory box (the sound deadener covered that hole you are concerned about) and I stuffed it with polyfill. One thing different that I did from you was mount my sub with the magnet facing out to get a tad more airspace out of the box. Now if you do this you will have to loose your factory grill but I was also going for the "look" as well. It sounds fantastic!!! I don't know the Kicker specs or dimensions but some have had to add a spacer ring so the magnet will clear the back of the box (you have close to 4" in there I think?). Depending on the thickness of your spacer you may have an issue with hitting the grill but if it just straight mounts right in then you will have no issue at all. And if your sub hits the grill when it's just flush mounted in there then the only issue you would have is a blown sub! lol cause the excursion on most any 8" sub will not go that far out. In short......you're on the correct path and will enjoy some nice clean bass. As for the wiring you asked about......if you have the factory amp (I assume you do) you can just tap in there at the amps outputs. Good luck to you.
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