Well its either intermitten power or contant. I always prefer contant. I think sunroof would be intermitten.

 

What happened to the LED light that went there???..It had to have a power source......

 

Believe me, I tried. I hooked up my trusty 12 volt test lamp, and each wire I touched either opened, closed, or tilted the sunroof. Running a power line was not as hard as I anticipated. I ran a line to the front, where the mirror is. Then I ran it along the front of the headliner and pushed it under. Next, I pulled the side panal and ran it alongside all of the other wires, removed the side kick panal and then ran it under the carped to an inline fuse and then into the fuse box.

I also added a 12 volt M socket (Radio Shack) that matches the harness I made for my radar detector. So, now I no longer have the ugly wire hanging down going into the cigarette lighter. Now it is a short wire to the new socket.

By the way, I also have a GPS, but I find it handy for reading menus when I order take out, etc. And, moving the mirror to position the factory lights is a pain in the a$$ since it then has to be readjusted for rear vision.

It is not intermittant-it is constant.

 

That was my first attempt. Problem is, since that light is LED, it is not sufficient voltage (I believe LED's use 1.2 volts or something minimal like that).

I did away with it, since I know where my window switches are without that annoying beam. Besides, now I have my powerful map light to see the switches if I cant find them

 

I STILL like the light. I would like something like that to illuminate my 1996 Rand McNally Road Atlas. The only place I know of that I can't use it is Boston, because of the Big Dig. Hell, you can't use anything in Boston because of the Big Dig. Maybe in another 5 years, or 5 billion more dollars you can, but not now.

 

I know what you mean about Boston! I lived in the vacinity for most of my life and still get confused everytime I go there! The inner city is mostly the same, but the approach, especially from the south changes everytime I go !
I used to know the city, then came the Big Dig!..eek:

Hey Lee, Good looking light. You just need more chrome in there so it does not stand out as much. A chrome theme inside will make it feel right at home.
As you can tell, I LOVE CHROME!

 

What's that circle vent lookin' thing?

 

That is the microphone for the OnStar/phone. My radio has bluetooth and another microphone that I clipped on the molding around the sunroof.

Robert- I tried adding chrome molding on the door panals-looked good but would not stick and stay in place. Besides, too much chrome inside the car causes reflections in the sun when the roof is open.

 

Lee, where did you tap into to get the constant 12V? I've got 2 outlets in the upper glove box... one is connected to fuze 21 with a Add-A-Fuze for the radar detector so it turns off and on with the ignition key, but the other one I want to have constant 12V. Every place I've tried, except the battery itself or the under hood 12V Jump terminal, is momentarly interupted when turning the key to start the vehicle. This would cause my GPS to restart and reset back to default settings. Any ideas if there is such a connection at the inside fuze panel?

 

I dont know. I originally had my connections tapped into the fusebox, but then relocated them to the terminal under the hood after a 'situation' with my dealer. My airbag warning light came on, so I took the car back to Chevy. After spending hours removing the passanger seat, various panals, etc the finally found the problem was a blown fuse. Since I had tapped into it, they would not cover it under warranty and I was stuck with a bill of several hundred dollars. I was very irritated, to say the least. They reduced it somewhat, but I still believe that they should have looked at the fuse first before ripping apart the car. Anyhow, I ran one 10 gauge line with a fuse from the powersteering terminal into the car, then have a second fuse before it splits into several spade connectors. I have my map light, GPS, various power outlets,etc all connected to that one line. Now, if I want to disconnect all of my accessories for troubleshooting, I only have to pull the one fuse from under the hood.