There seems to be quite a bit of knowledge on here. I don't know much about audio exept I'm fairly disappointed with the so-called premium sound system in my HHR. I had a Mitsubishi a few years back with a premium Infinity sound system. Even without a sub, the sound quality was so much better and I could actually feel the bass. Long story short here are my questions.

1. I plan on replacing the HU with a Pioneer AVHP4000DVD or AVIC-F700. I figure the power out of that will be plenty to drive a few new 2-ways I might put in the door. I've done this sort of upgrade in the past and have been very happy with the results. No real question, just open for comments or speaker recomendations. I've found all the harnesses I'll need (not 100% positive on the antenna adapter).

2. I plan on building my own box for 1 12" shallow mount (I can handle the box part). I want to put it in the area just above the spare. I'm leaning towards a Fosgate P3SD412. Other than getting a 4 ohm amp rated for 400W RMS I have no idea how to pick one. I've read the mono vs 2-channel thing but don't understand much about it or the benifits.

3. Last question, is there any problem using the existing wiring. I plan on tapping into sub wires based on the sticky.

Thanks for your help. I'm looking to keep costs down on the speakers and sub equipment, I just want a decent system I can enjoy during my hour commute to and from work every day.

 

Are you aware that the stock HU also controls the sound of the turn signals and operates the chime when the key is in and door open?

 

You can always get the harness and module to keep your door chime and all. I personally dont use this as I like to disable door chime and turn signal chime in all my vehicles.
If you are doing a new head unit, speakers, amp and sub, DO NOT use the existing wiring. I dont even know how you will be able to tap into the sub wire to make the new amp work as it will be of better quality and easier to do just running RCAs to the amp from the head unit.
The factory amp will have to be bypassed so you might as well do the better thing and run all new speaker wires to each speaker.

 

I thought the GMOSLAN04 took care of the signal issue. I was going to use this in order to retain OnStar.

Ed, you're right on the wiring issue. I'll just do new wiring. I was mainly thinking about re-using the door wires but that shouldn't be hard to replace either.

 

If you replace the door wiring you have to go through the existing grommets that hold the existing wiring. Easy to get off, mild to get through, PIA to get back on. Still worth it though. As far as the amp, go mono. It is designed to give the sub the power it needs. You will also need a four channel amp to divide and power all four door speakers. I suppose you could use a 5-channel and power them all, but it would have to be huge. I'm running three Rockford P-2s and using a Audiobahn mono to power them and having great results.

On a side note, if you want to keep your stock head unit and all the chimes that go alon with it, get a converter that changes your factory speaker wires over to RCA. I did this with mine and it worked out great. Bypass all the old wireing all together and just ran new. If you go this route, make sure you get one with adjustable gains so you can set them where you like. Most aftermarket head units push about 4 to 5. The one I got can go up to 9, so the stereo dealer and I just set it about half way.

 

After tearing apart my HHR, I have to say the factory wiring is pretty decent, I tapped into the amp output harness and the wiring looks about 18-16 gauge, which is typical for what you'd run anyways. Also since the car is a noisy environment, you should be fine using the factory wiring, assuming you have the factory premium system.

Also you'll want to pickup a new amp, the factory one is insufficient with an aftermarket headunit.

 

Sorry Tuanies, I have to disagree. Any wiring you run should be a thicker guage (read smaller number) then what is in there. You may not think so, but there is a difference. You good wire that is oxygen free. It will say on the label and spend the extra money to do it right.

 

As for speakers, I used these in my doors and they are some great sounding units.

Kicker DS600:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...0607DS60&tp=95

 

I'm sorry, but if audiophiles can't tell the difference between a coathanger and $10k speaker cables, I doubt you can tell any difference between factory wiring vs running your own wiring. With all the noise in a car and the pretty low power outputs, you're fine with factory wiring.

 

very true. Think about this also... The wiring is only as good as the weakest link, and the weak links are abundant even without the wire from component to component. The tinsel leads on the speaker are usually around 22-26ga and the curcuit traces in the amp are even smaller. Think how many times the OUTPUT stage of the amp goes through caps and resistors. How small is the hair thin wire coming and going from these parts? VERY small. Using large ga wire from amps to speakers will not hurt, but it certainly will not help either...unless helping can be defined as helping to thin your wallet, helping you ego, etc....

Now, on the other hand, if you have amps like mine where the amps are capable of VERY serious current, then 12 ga wire is usually sufficient for speaker wire.

Power wire is much different as the amperage must increase with voltage drop and amperage causes heat and heat causes more resistance, which causes voltage to drop and current demands to rise, causing more heat....rinse, repeat, etc...LOL. Use the biggest power wire you can fit top the amp from the battery.