Which one is the "Remote turn on" wire?
08-24-2018, 07:22 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-07-2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 505
Ok, let’s try this again.
STEERING WHEEL CTRL SIG is an input based on the 10v and resistance buttons completing the circuit.
Meaning REMOTE RADIO CTRL SIG must also be an input from REMOTE RADIO CTRL.
So maybe it is a status signal confirming when the amplifier is indeed on. Possibly to have the car throw a code stating amplifier failure, or maybe make it possible for an onstar representative to know they cannot communicate to the customer because the amplifier is broken or off in an accident for example?
So just providing the same voltage to that input would eliminate that error.
Anyone have access to this pin with a voltmeter?
Lets get this solved and throw that amp out the rear hatch!
STEERING WHEEL CTRL SIG is an input based on the 10v and resistance buttons completing the circuit.
Meaning REMOTE RADIO CTRL SIG must also be an input from REMOTE RADIO CTRL.
So maybe it is a status signal confirming when the amplifier is indeed on. Possibly to have the car throw a code stating amplifier failure, or maybe make it possible for an onstar representative to know they cannot communicate to the customer because the amplifier is broken or off in an accident for example?
So just providing the same voltage to that input would eliminate that error.
Anyone have access to this pin with a voltmeter?
Lets get this solved and throw that amp out the rear hatch!
08-24-2018, 07:58 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-07-2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 505
Wait a minute, I can test this right now. I am going to pull the 20A amplifier fuse and see what happens when the radio attempts to turn on the amplifier.
I don’t want to, but I can try calling onstar too, to see if they will call me on my cell phone knowing the amplifier is not functioning, and I can not hear them.
Has anyone had the amp fuse blow on them before and got a code or check engine light?
I don’t want to, but I can try calling onstar too, to see if they will call me on my cell phone knowing the amplifier is not functioning, and I can not hear them.
Has anyone had the amp fuse blow on them before and got a code or check engine light?
08-25-2018, 03:00 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-07-2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 505
Ok, so amp fuse pull does nothing. Radio and car still function just fine without audio.
Sirius XM radio seems to be fine too, not that I could hear anything but the channels still came up and changed.
It has to be something with onstar, maybe I can call them after I cut the wire and see if they notice anything.
Car did not throw any codes, and I scanned all the system modules that I was able to.
I feel as long as onstar says differently the green wire can be removed.
I know I have been going crazy with the posts, but some feedback is appreciated.
Sirius XM radio seems to be fine too, not that I could hear anything but the channels still came up and changed.
It has to be something with onstar, maybe I can call them after I cut the wire and see if they notice anything.
Car did not throw any codes, and I scanned all the system modules that I was able to.
I feel as long as onstar says differently the green wire can be removed.
I know I have been going crazy with the posts, but some feedback is appreciated.
08-25-2018, 08:49 AM
#26
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,691
The pink wire supplies voltage to the antenna amp, so "hot when radio on". The hi lited wire was a mistake and makes you think it connects to 10V ref, it does not.
Now I'm thinking the lt green wire tells the HU that the "Onstar is using the phone so mute yourself".
Now I'm thinking the lt green wire tells the HU that the "Onstar is using the phone so mute yourself".
08-25-2018, 11:12 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-07-2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 505
Mute has been confirmed to still be operational with aftermarket amp, so I believe that is taken care of in the radio.
Pink wire is remote on for amplifier and antenna when controlled on by the radio.
The highlighted blue wire does indeed use the 10v supply through the steering wheel resister circuit.
And light green wire in question looks to be an output from the amplifier so it would be sending a voltage to the radio to be used by something???
If a voltmeter can tell me that it outputs 10v lets say at all times when the amplifier is on, then all that would need to be done is recreate a 10v signal when the aftermarket amplifiers turn on.
Basically a status line for the canbus system to possibly allow the dealer to diagnose the factory system when a customer complains there stereo is not working?
Which would also allow onstar to tell if they can speak to their customers.
Pink wire is remote on for amplifier and antenna when controlled on by the radio.
The highlighted blue wire does indeed use the 10v supply through the steering wheel resister circuit.
And light green wire in question looks to be an output from the amplifier so it would be sending a voltage to the radio to be used by something???
If a voltmeter can tell me that it outputs 10v lets say at all times when the amplifier is on, then all that would need to be done is recreate a 10v signal when the aftermarket amplifiers turn on.
Basically a status line for the canbus system to possibly allow the dealer to diagnose the factory system when a customer complains there stereo is not working?
Which would also allow onstar to tell if they can speak to their customers.
08-25-2018, 12:33 PM
#28
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,691
Why are we worrying about it? I thought you had the plug and play adapters.
The muting I am referring to is when you use the hands free phone feature of OnStar. The Onstar module tells the radio to "shut up we're on the dam phone".
The canbus wires are different type of wire.
The muting I am referring to is when you use the hands free phone feature of OnStar. The Onstar module tells the radio to "shut up we're on the dam phone".
The canbus wires are different type of wire.
08-25-2018, 12:37 PM
#29
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Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 7,805
08-25-2018, 01:23 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-07-2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 505
Ok, I do not have any adapters, I have the stock HU and plan to cut the Low level outputs to install RCA connectors to directly wire it into new amps to limit sound loss.
I am installing two amps, front RCAs to a 4 channel amp and rear RCAs to a mono sub amp and would rather not have the stock amp in there taking electricity to just power a green wire, which if it is the mute signal would not work anyway because of the new amps.
But, I beleive it is not an input but rather an output, based only by naming convention used on the schematic you provided.
If it was a mute amp signal to allow phone conversation it would not work, because the phone still needs speaker output to hear the people talk while on the phone. Basically the radio would cut all other audio inputs not the amp, since the amp only has the low level inputs it does not have a separate phone input.
And yes, I am basically going to follow the first sticky in this post, but unlike that sticky I am going to cut the wires. I do not plan to keep the factory amp powering the sub.
I am installing two amps, front RCAs to a 4 channel amp and rear RCAs to a mono sub amp and would rather not have the stock amp in there taking electricity to just power a green wire, which if it is the mute signal would not work anyway because of the new amps.
But, I beleive it is not an input but rather an output, based only by naming convention used on the schematic you provided.
If it was a mute amp signal to allow phone conversation it would not work, because the phone still needs speaker output to hear the people talk while on the phone. Basically the radio would cut all other audio inputs not the amp, since the amp only has the low level inputs it does not have a separate phone input.
And yes, I am basically going to follow the first sticky in this post, but unlike that sticky I am going to cut the wires. I do not plan to keep the factory amp powering the sub.