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Crutchfield is good, I went with them when I purchased my adapter and radio, but like you I was doing somethings that were custom and it was a learning experience for all of us, but they work through it with you.
Crutchfield is good, I went with them when I purchased my adapter and radio, but like you I was doing somethings that were custom and it was a learning experience for all of us, but they work through it with you.
If you were wanting to mount a sub in the direct wire method you've nicely outlined.... would the OEM sub "housing" serve as a good mount & air chamber enclosure for a similar sized Sub?
I'm not wanting a box on the floor, defeats the purpose of HHR for a small business and I'd rather not use the spare tire well.
The area where the OEM Sub was housed appears to have a problem in other threads finding a good mount & air chamber.
The Sub housing looks like a possible good option if not wanting a large Sub.
I am an old fart, well past my Iggy/Ramones/Clash/Dolls/Black Sabbath etc. days. I don't get the agonizing over the car stereo. Get what you can afford, rip out the old stuff, install the new stuff. There is a hole drilled in the roof for the antenna wire, There are places to mount any equipment you may want and places to route wires. If you are going to spend money on really good stuff you are going to replace ALL of the wires. Ripping the interior panels out to get access is not the huge PIA that it seems to be, you just need to do it in the correct order and be careful with the plastic tabs.
Yeah, I am using the factory sub box with a Dayton audio 8 inch sub woofer and amp, and I upgraded my car for sound quality not buzzing bass. So the sub is just there to enforce the speakers. So I know what you mean.
But instead of going to the trouble of buying the factory box, subwoofer speaker, and amp, I meant you could just buy a shallow mount sub box and amp combination box and fit it in the void where the factory sub would go.
I think pioneer makes such an item, basically you are buying one item and running RCAs to it. The box is included and check other posts on here I think it exactly fits in the void.
I believe other people on here have done that, leaving the car look like factory, no box in the trunk taking up space. The only down side to that would be accessing the sub amp, you would need to take the car apart every time to get to it. But, once you have it set the way you want just leave it in there and forget right?
Yeah, I am using the factory sub box with a Dayton audio 8 inch sub woofer and amp, and I upgraded my car for sound quality not buzzing bass. So the sub is just there to enforce the speakers. So I know what you mean.
But instead of going to the trouble of buying the factory box, subwoofer speaker, and amp, I meant you could just buy a shallow mount sub box and amp combination box and fit it in the void where the factory sub would go.
I think pioneer makes such an item, basically you are buying one item and running RCAs to it. The box is included and check other posts on here I think it exactly fits in the void.
I believe other people on here have done that, leaving the car look like factory, no box in the trunk taking up space. The only down side to that would be accessing the sub amp, you would need to take the car apart every time to get to it. But, once you have it set the way you want just leave it in there and forget right?
Oh, I'll look... I didn't realize an aftermarket box was made for the HHR Sub chamber area. My concern was anything other than OEM would rattle around or tend to vibrate due to loose fit in the interior area.
Especially the "all in one unit" Sub, amp & pre-fit box.
I am an old fart, well past my Iggy/Ramones/Clash/Dolls/Black Sabbath etc. days. I don't get the agonizing over the car stereo. Get what you can afford, rip out the old stuff, install the new stuff. There is a hole drilled in the roof for the antenna wire, There are places to mount any equipment you may want and places to route wires. If you are going to spend money on really good stuff you are going to replace ALL of the wires. Ripping the interior panels out to get access is not the huge PIA that it seems to be, you just need to do it in the correct order and be careful with the plastic tabs.
Yepper... I'm there with ya! But, I still like my Ozzy, AC/DC, Lita, Joan Jet and Metallica... just can't pump the volume to head pounding pressures in enclosures! LOL!
Speaking of Old Farts... you see Ozzy is on Tour, coming through our Midwest section too.
That might be a bit sad to watch, the last few Old Farts returning on Tour have been a bit past the beat!
You are right in that they are not meant for the hhr. So, yes the factory box will get the job done while remaining hidden. It’s not the best box, but it works.
Wow.... several expressed the interior paneling was a bit of a pain, heard ya all but thought... can't be that bad. That takes a bit of time and disassembly to reach the OnStar box and flip in a position so I can see connections and the various cables around it. Plus, was planning to change Storage box to rear seat kit, install a factory Sub Enclosure and run some wire to dash so I wanted to explore the take down on both sides.
Read a thread on Antenna stub removal that indicated 1) push and twist or 2) unscrew. Tried that and snapped 1 of the 2 antennas within stub... for my OnStar / GPS antenna it required just an upward pull of the stubby. Not a big deal, I needed to replace with the 3 lead so I can gain XMSirius with GPS.... don't care about the OnStar.
The main kicker on the disassembly was the Coat Hook hangers of all things, couldn't see the trim screw location til it was pointed out by Firemangeorge... Thanks!
From the pic... OnStar connections.... The Blue FAKRA Antenna connector is the GPS... correct? The larger white connector is the OnStar?
Thus on the 3 lead Antenna side: Blue, Yellow, Dk Red... that would be GPS, XM Radio, OnStar ?
Several threads indicate OnStar cannot be disconnected & removed. Is this still the response or is there a workaround in connections?
If OnStar needs to remain plugged into harness, the Antenna leads can be disconnected and moved to alternate GPS antenna lead & XM antenna running to dash correct.
Is there a need to leave the OnStar White Antenna plugged into system... could that just be open connection?
Curious... since the OnStar is considered a mobile phone antenna, can that be moved to a "device ?" that cell phones can use for stronger reception in car?
I realize new Radio Head will provide BT connectivity so the mobile antenna is probably a moot question.
When done, the new configuration should be Ft Mount AM/FM antenna to Radio Head, Rr Mount XM Antenna to Dash XM module, and GPS to Radio Head GPS add-on module.
You are right in that they are not meant for the hhr. So, yes the factory box will get the job done while remaining hidden. It’s not the best box, but it works.
Since I'm on a similar path you've already taken. The AMP's I've examined have a Remote control, can that be used to "Tune" after back together and closed up or is that only for balance adjustment when playing.
Did you AMP only the sub or did you Amp all the speakers? If all speakers, the AMP probably needs to be up Ft or run a lot an additional cable back & forth.
I do have a OEM Sub enclosure to arrive in near future, has the Factory SUB... at this stage better to replace or is the Pioneer 2 Ohm Sub pretty good?
11-18-2018, 10:46 AM
