Replacing stock subwoofer
03-20-2012, 11:58 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-11-2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 149
When I get home I will post a picture of the amp. Here is a picture of the 3M Scotch Lok wire taps:
http://www.amazon.com/3M6126-CRL-ScotchLok-Auto-Tap-Connectors/dp/B0049YQD8Q
You need the red ones, they are 16-22 gauge wire and they run about $3 a pack at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store. They make a great connection, you don't have to strip any wires and they don't damage the OEM wire so you can remove them later if you want. I have used these for many years on all kinds of auto electrical project with zero problems.
You will need three to tap into the pink remote wire to turn on your amp, and the other two will go on one of the positive and neagtive wires that are the low level inputs(same as RCA inputs on an aftermarket head unit). I used the left rear channel-brown wire is negative and brown and white wire is positive. I then used this Kicker adapter to turn the speaker wire into an RCA connector:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17680_Kicker-ZISL-09ZISL.html
Remember, you are using the low level output from the headunit so you do not need a converter-this output by the way is 4-5 volts, very similiar to higher end aftermarket head units.
This will give you your RCA input for your sub and a remote wire to turn the sub on. The rest is really easy as the battery is right back there for your positive wire and I used a ground nearby, don't use the negative battery cable as the ground, you could introduce noise(alternator whine) into the system.
As for a choice of subwoofers, if you want to drop it right in like I did, then the sub cannot be more than 3.75" deep. If you want to use a longer sub, then you can make a 3/4" spacer out of plywood to give you a maximum depth of about 4.5", giving more choices for subs. The factory box cubic feet is around .54, so your sub should like to play in that size space. Use this box size calculator to plug in a subwoofer's specs to see what kind of box it likes to be in:
http://www.bcae1.com/
Go down to topic #110, basic enclosure calculations and you will see a calculator where you can put in your subs info and it will tell you the best box type and size. You want a sub that works well in a sealed box with a cubic feet of .5-.6 for best results.
Pulling apart the left side of the rear hatch area was suprisingly easy and you don't have to take the rear seat out, you can remove all of the trim easily without doing that, just look for all of the push type fasteners and after about 45 minutes you'll have the trim and factory sub box out.
http://www.amazon.com/3M6126-CRL-ScotchLok-Auto-Tap-Connectors/dp/B0049YQD8Q
You need the red ones, they are 16-22 gauge wire and they run about $3 a pack at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store. They make a great connection, you don't have to strip any wires and they don't damage the OEM wire so you can remove them later if you want. I have used these for many years on all kinds of auto electrical project with zero problems.
You will need three to tap into the pink remote wire to turn on your amp, and the other two will go on one of the positive and neagtive wires that are the low level inputs(same as RCA inputs on an aftermarket head unit). I used the left rear channel-brown wire is negative and brown and white wire is positive. I then used this Kicker adapter to turn the speaker wire into an RCA connector:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17680_Kicker-ZISL-09ZISL.html
Remember, you are using the low level output from the headunit so you do not need a converter-this output by the way is 4-5 volts, very similiar to higher end aftermarket head units.
This will give you your RCA input for your sub and a remote wire to turn the sub on. The rest is really easy as the battery is right back there for your positive wire and I used a ground nearby, don't use the negative battery cable as the ground, you could introduce noise(alternator whine) into the system.
As for a choice of subwoofers, if you want to drop it right in like I did, then the sub cannot be more than 3.75" deep. If you want to use a longer sub, then you can make a 3/4" spacer out of plywood to give you a maximum depth of about 4.5", giving more choices for subs. The factory box cubic feet is around .54, so your sub should like to play in that size space. Use this box size calculator to plug in a subwoofer's specs to see what kind of box it likes to be in:
http://www.bcae1.com/
Go down to topic #110, basic enclosure calculations and you will see a calculator where you can put in your subs info and it will tell you the best box type and size. You want a sub that works well in a sealed box with a cubic feet of .5-.6 for best results.
Pulling apart the left side of the rear hatch area was suprisingly easy and you don't have to take the rear seat out, you can remove all of the trim easily without doing that, just look for all of the push type fasteners and after about 45 minutes you'll have the trim and factory sub box out.
Last edited by barfan1; 03-20-2012 at 12:00 PM. Reason: spelling
04-30-2012, 12:47 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-12-2007
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 456
I plan on doin this mod over the next few weeks and I was going to order the amp and sub in the next few days. I have done some research and I think I am going to go with this combo but I would like to get some feedback before I pull the trigger. I know the sub will be deep and I will need to build it out with some trim rings but that doesn't bother me.
Amp:
Sound Ordnance™ M-1350 - 350RMS Mono Amp
Sub:
JBL GTO804 8" 4-ohms 200RMS
Amp:
Sound Ordnance™ M-1350 - 350RMS Mono Amp
Sub:
JBL GTO804 8" 4-ohms 200RMS
Last edited by bad03xtreme; 04-30-2012 at 01:57 PM.
05-01-2012, 02:28 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-12-2007
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 456
Alright well I ordered my stuff so it should be here ready for installation this weekend. I just want to get clarification on a few things...
When I use the Kicker adapter to tap into the speaker wires I use the Brown and Brown/White wires in the adapter only correct, so there will be two empty slots in the adapter? The pink wire runs directly to the amp for the remote power.
When I use the Kicker adapter to tap into the speaker wires I use the Brown and Brown/White wires in the adapter only correct, so there will be two empty slots in the adapter? The pink wire runs directly to the amp for the remote power.
05-02-2012, 01:48 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-12-2007
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 456
Has anyone installed an amp inside the panel on the opposite side of the stock subwoofer? Is there enough space inside there, if there is enough space for a sub on the other side I assume it can hold an amp?
05-04-2012, 11:04 AM
#17
Join Date: 05-04-2012
Location: Garden City, MI USA
Posts: 5
Thanks for posting this. The wife just got a 2010 2LT over the weekend and doesn't want to put her 10s in it and use up the cargo space.
I have a Audiobahn 8" and a 100w Rockford Fosgate amp in the garage I think I will try to use for her car.
I have a Audiobahn 8" and a 100w Rockford Fosgate amp in the garage I think I will try to use for her car.
05-07-2012, 08:04 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-12-2007
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 456
I installed my amp and sub over the weekend and everything is working but I am getting a pop from the sub whenever I turn the ignition on? Any thoughts on what would cause this, the ground seems fine.