Sub replacement - 2ohm/4ohm?
The factory sub is for a fact dual 2 ohm. It measures at rest as 1.8 per voice coil. The factory box has a sticker on the top of it nearest the rear side window that also states 2ohm + 2ohm.
I did try a single 10 sub wired to the stock amp in the factory box (cut it up to fit the 10) and it did not make much difference. The box is very flexible and is just not that good of a box. the amp is very very weak too. These two items imho are the weakest links in the factory sub setup. The factory sub could probably be ok with a tad bit more wattage and a better box. But all in all all three are not all that great.
Also the factory box is less then 4" internal depth for the sub.
I did try a single 10 sub wired to the stock amp in the factory box (cut it up to fit the 10) and it did not make much difference. The box is very flexible and is just not that good of a box. the amp is very very weak too. These two items imho are the weakest links in the factory sub setup. The factory sub could probably be ok with a tad bit more wattage and a better box. But all in all all three are not all that great.
Also the factory box is less then 4" internal depth for the sub.
Thats why you cover it and polyfill the guts..brings out the bump....but only do this if you have absolutly no desire to add/ modify/lose cargo space or otherwise replace half to all of the stock system..Ive done this AND added a 10" POLK/box-Alpine amp(sub only) and it does good with the somewhat stck sys,,(infinity doors ), but have a box floating around the back end.
I currently have a 1cft ported fiberglass box built into the factory location. But I also cut out some of the metal of the inner skin and built a pocket so a subs magnet could extend into it. The box was built for a 10" sub but I have been running a single Polk MM 840dvc sub in it since I had it already and never have decided on the 10 I want. The funny thing is is that the Pok does not need this extra depth to fit lol.
The stock system seriously lacks anything beyond..well..stock...My LS doesnt have any kind a sub so the Premier does sound better then that..but will never compare to even a low cost aftermarket head unit/ speaker set up, especially if youve ever had an aftermarket set up in a previous car..Ive yet to hear a stocker that can compare to an aftermarket setup..and its mainly the cheapie low wattage head units..though they are getting better...the aftermarket companies would probably have plenty to say if the auto makers actually made a real audio system...but then most people are tone deaf and dont care what it sounds like..too busy yakking and texting anyways..
So the dual 4ohm Polk just arrived, but will be a while before an install, its 9F here in WI. I can live with the bass from the factory box being weak, I plan to add subs on a seperate output that can be turned up/down/off independent of the factory system.
Currently wrestling with the door speaker replacement, as the adapter brackets Crutchfield sent do not fit. Anyone know of some that do fit the upgraded system mounts front and rear?
Currently wrestling with the door speaker replacement, as the adapter brackets Crutchfield sent do not fit. Anyone know of some that do fit the upgraded system mounts front and rear?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAC6...-Brackets.html
Used the car selector feature, but it seems that they just send these out with just about any speakers for any car, judging by the comments.
I'm going to make the Polk fit in the factory box, knowing full well it is too long, (4.0in) with some fabrication, powered by the factory amp. As for reenforcing the box... not really sure how to go about that. I'll post a diagram/outline of what I'm attempting.
Used the car selector feature, but it seems that they just send these out with just about any speakers for any car, judging by the comments.
I'm going to make the Polk fit in the factory box, knowing full well it is too long, (4.0in) with some fabrication, powered by the factory amp. As for reenforcing the box... not really sure how to go about that. I'll post a diagram/outline of what I'm attempting.
You will have to run it at 2 ohms or more. Running dual 2 ohms would give you 1 ohm and burn the factory amp up.
Dual 4 ohm or a single 2 ohm if you are talking just 1 speaker to replace the factory one. As you know if you run it at 4 ohm it will be about half the power going to it. I couldn't hear my stock one at 2 ohm. Would hate to know what it would do with a 4 ohm in it. I just unhooked it and ran a bigger sub. No sense in it running but being silent.
Dual 4 ohm or a single 2 ohm if you are talking just 1 speaker to replace the factory one. As you know if you run it at 4 ohm it will be about half the power going to it. I couldn't hear my stock one at 2 ohm. Would hate to know what it would do with a 4 ohm in it. I just unhooked it and ran a bigger sub. No sense in it running but being silent.



