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Where to patch into audio for subwoofer? (LS w/no sub)

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Old 01-25-2008, 01:24 PM
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Where to patch into audio for subwoofer? (LS w/no sub)

I've been told that there prob isn't a harness leading to the back if I don't have the factory sub.

If this is true, where is the best place to patch into the audio cables? Is there an easier panel to remove than others?

Thanks for any help!
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:57 PM
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The harness likely won't be there if you don't have the premium audio package.

The absolute best place to put a line level converter is as close to the head unit as possible... there can be quite a bit of noise further down the line, however, if you're just using it for a sub the crossover of your amp would probably eliminate most/all of that hiss anyway.
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:47 PM
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Check out this post here, https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/audio-video-17/instructions-install-aftermarket-amp-sub-2891/. May be what your looking for.
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Old 01-26-2008, 01:19 AM
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Im considering this too, and I also have the base LS system. I have a little electronics knowledge, but have never done an install on my own. Looking for a budget setup for now.
Rather than use a line out converter, what are the pros/cons of an amp that has speaker level inputs?
Im looking at getting a single 10" sub bridged from a budget amp, and hopefully locating both in the stock locations of the premium system.

Pioneer GM3300T 120W RMS bridged mono, using built in 80Hz low pass filter to sub and speaker level inputs


Pioneer 10-in. Subwoofer TS-W251R 150W RMS, 1.3 cu ft box ported/.7-1.0 cu ft sealed, 6" depth I think


Also, a couple members have put their own sub in the stock location, building their own box I think. Anyone want to share pointers/pics? How deep is the cavity there?
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:41 AM
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I would say if you can spare the cash, go with the line level converter. It will sound loads better. I placed mine on the driver side right under the head unit and ran wires underneath to the rear to replace all the stock stuff. Check out some of the galleries to see some of the installs. Remember, if you run the low level speaker wires to your amp, you will still have to cut the wires, might as well do it once and get the better sound too
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Old 01-26-2008, 01:03 PM
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Sorry about the thread hijack
Yeah, I just found out crutchfields ships to canada now, so theres more possibilities, free shipping on most stuff too. A line converter is only about $20.
This setup looks better, and leaves room for future upgrades. Might have to watch it though, looks like the amp could overpower the 10" sub when cranked. It has variable crossover though, I really like that.

Sony XM-2002GTR


Infinity Reference 1050w


Scosche SLC4


And later on, if i really want to wake up the kids:
Polk Audio db212-2
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:31 PM
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The amp had to have a dial for the level of output to the sub. Just need to turn that down when all is hooked up. Mount it all, set your head unit base at 0, start turning your amp up. When your amp is where you want it, then let it go. If you have a song or something that you want more bass to then you can turn up your head unit for that song, then turn down again for everything else.
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Old 01-27-2008, 05:27 PM
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Thanks for the help everyone... but I was without internet this weekend, so I winged the installation.

Found a good place to tap into the audio (snap out some trim from the lower B pillars & find the audio wire on each side. The driver's side appeared to be a small yellow wire, and the passenger's side was a small bright blue wire. Power was found by tapping into the "RDO" fuse up front (don't know why they couldn't just spell out RADIO (?). I'll solder the connections when the weather warms up - too cold to spend much time in the garage.

Sounds great :)

Photos soon...
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:03 AM
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Good to hear wing, seems like it worked out ok.
Those wire colors and placement seem to match up with the info in the thread posted by dr_fosg8, that helps me too.
Is that RDO fuse switched by the ignition, the radio on, or always powered?
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by prod
Is that RDO fuse switched by the ignition, the radio on, or always powered?
I thought it was controlled by the ignition, but when I open & close my doors I hear the sub's amp come on & off. I'm guessing that the radio comes on for any door chimes that may need to be audible?

Anyway, I'll have to find a different switched fuse... it's funny to hear the sub thump when I enter/exit the car (the heartbeat of Chevrolet?).
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