30/30/30 rule for newly installed pads and rotors
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2008
Posts: 178
From: Outside the Capitol Beltway
Bedding for perfection
Guys,
On my other car I installed new rotors and Hawk pads later doing this bedding process.
My brakes are terrific, with no fade, no noise, no lumps and no problems what so ever. I've heard people moan about their brakes squeeling etc., my thinking is that they never took the time to do the bedding as they should have done.
Go ahead and ignore this aspect of brakes, but don't be surprised if they disappoint. I followed the bedding instructions on the box, because who would know more about the product than the manufacturer.......me or them?
QR
On my other car I installed new rotors and Hawk pads later doing this bedding process.
My brakes are terrific, with no fade, no noise, no lumps and no problems what so ever. I've heard people moan about their brakes squeeling etc., my thinking is that they never took the time to do the bedding as they should have done.
Go ahead and ignore this aspect of brakes, but don't be surprised if they disappoint. I followed the bedding instructions on the box, because who would know more about the product than the manufacturer.......me or them?
QR
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2008
Posts: 178
From: Outside the Capitol Beltway
Bedding instructions-typical
OOOPs,
I should have stuck this bedding procedure in the last message.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/faqs.asp#bedding1
QR
I should have stuck this bedding procedure in the last message.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/faqs.asp#bedding1
QR
Founding Member
Joined: 11-23-2007
Posts: 8,210
From: Texas
Absolutely, you do need to burnish the new pads and freshly turned rotors. I am just saying most don't do a 30/30/30. If I did my brakes I usually take a drive down the road applying the brakes (not locking them up) to a stop or slowing to under 5 mph down and then accelerate again repeating this down a quarter mile or so road. I have never counted how many times I do the stop and go.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-13-2008
Posts: 4,708
From: Washington State, where it rains
Install em.bed em..a couple a short sloww stops to heat em,complete cool down then business as usual....the race car was a different story as there really isn't any "soft" braking,,,they HAD to be broke in......BUT lets not forget these newer cars are a lot more sensitive to these things then the older ones that had the big bad 200 LB rotors ( obviously exagerated ) that could be heated red and still brake with no wobble...these rotors are thin and the hats even thinner. so it doesn;t take but a small piece of dirt to throw the whole package out of balance....(between hat and hub ) torquing becomes critical too because of this..the older thick rotors would take bad tq procedures, these don't.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-21-2009
Posts: 138
From: Los Angeles, Ca
Absolutely, you do need to burnish the new pads and freshly turned rotors. I am just saying most don't do a 30/30/30. If I did my brakes I usually take a drive down the road applying the brakes (not locking them up) to a stop or slowing to under 5 mph down and then accelerate again repeating this down a quarter mile or so road. I have never counted how many times I do the stop and go.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-22-2008
Posts: 391
From: G'town, MD
mrsilent, I too did a "few" years at a franchise Goodyear and attended a couple of classes that were brake courses put on by the major manufacturers...... All we ever did was rinse'em with A LOT of hot water...... I use to call it makin' rust...... never did have one come back for noise concerns...... and yes use the lube (the stuff made for brakes).
