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30/30/30 rule for newly installed pads and rotors

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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #21  
PrairieHHR's Avatar
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Joined: 03-31-2008
Posts: 60
From: Saskatoon, SK
Originally Posted by novadude
Can someone quote a price for the Napa Rotors and Pads, I have a 07 HHR 2LT, 2.4, 47K miles. I am getting the vibration when stopping from higher speeds, not too much from slower speeds.
Also interested in finding this out, time to get some new rotors and pads on the 06.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 06:54 AM
  #22  
AJochum's Avatar
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Joined: 01-24-2008
Posts: 725
From: USA
NAPA Brake Pricing

Last week I purchased my rotors and pads from NAPA. I bought the best ceramic pads and their highest quality drums. My cost for everything was $124. I'm not sure everyone will get this price, as my guy gives me dealer pricing, but it's a starting point for you.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 07:01 AM
  #23  
Old Lar's Avatar
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Joined: 09-11-2007
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From: Palm Bay, Florida
My 06 HHR still has the original brakes and rotors at 68,000 miles. I'm easy on brakes.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #24  
ridgebackdog's Avatar
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Joined: 06-11-2008
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From: Western New York
Okay, everybody keeps talking about the what, but not the why. So, here it is; Semi-metallic brake pads are made of a friction material(the metallic part), and a polyester resin binder(the non-metallic part).
Right out of the box, the polyester resin is not cured, it needs to be gently heat cycled to complete the curing process. If it's overheated before it's cured it will boil to the surface and form a glaze that's actually harder and slicker than the friction material. that's what caused squealing, excessive brake dust(the dust is rotor material!, not pad material), premature pad failure, pad chunking and hard pedal with poor braking performance. None of this applies to organic, kevlar, or ceramic pads.

Also check your owner's manual. Under "New Vehicle Break-In" it states:

"Avoid making hard stops for the first 200 miles(322 km) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings."

Last edited by ridgebackdog; Jun 27, 2010 at 08:07 AM. Reason: clarification
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 05:57 PM
  #25  
pokeypony's Avatar
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Joined: 01-05-2008
Posts: 19
From: Phoenix,AZ
Originally Posted by Old Lar
My 06 HHR still has the original brakes and rotors at 68,000 miles. I'm easy on brakes.
I was figuring this was normal.....Ive tortured my 07 since it was new and the brakes have 63 k on them and look to be half left.

Seeing so many people have to replace brakes at 40k makes me think mine is special
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 09:38 PM
  #26  
QuickRick's Avatar
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Joined: 10-19-2008
Posts: 178
From: Outside the Capitol Beltway
HHR brakes

Guys,

Our brake pads are wearing okay, but the tiny little rotors are getting lumpier by the month. I think that pads are going to be the least of our worries and I'm sure they will outlast the rotors by a large amount.

I'll save up for a set of cryrogenically treated Power-Slots after the Christmas bill are paid off.

QR
Old Dec 30, 2010 | 08:11 AM
  #27  
mrarff's Avatar
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Joined: 01-28-2009
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From: south carolina
"the dust is rotor material!, not pad material" I'll bet you still believe in Santa,the Easter Bunny, ect. Where does the pad material go? Why can you turn the rotors several times when you replace pads? Anyway,there are places in the caliper/pad assembly for 2 different types of lube. One goes on the back of the pad (this stops squeeling) and the other goes on the "ears" of the pads (this keeps the pads from sticking to the slots on the calipers) most of the shuddering comes IMO from residue build up on the rotors. This is where the bedding/break-in process comes in. At city speeds, you won't have it. But get on the off ramp on the Interstate and you surely will. Again, IMO stock rotors AND good quality ceramic pads along with proper installation/break-in is the way to go.
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 07:22 AM
  #28  
ridgebackdog's Avatar
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Joined: 06-11-2008
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From: Western New York
Originally Posted by mrarff
"the dust is rotor material!, not pad material" I'll bet you still believe in Santa,the Easter Bunny, ect. Where does the pad material go? Why can you turn the rotors several times when you replace pads? Anyway,there are places in the caliper/pad assembly for 2 different types of lube. One goes on the back of the pad (this stops squeeling) and the other goes on the "ears" of the pads (this keeps the pads from sticking to the slots on the calipers) most of the shuddering comes IMO from residue build up on the rotors. This is where the bedding/break-in process comes in. At city speeds, you won't have it. But get on the off ramp on the Interstate and you surely will. Again, IMO stock rotors AND good quality ceramic pads along with proper installation/break-in is the way to go.
Read the entire post. Specifically the sentence before that statement.
Old Jan 19, 2011 | 08:28 AM
  #29  
mrarff's Avatar
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Joined: 01-28-2009
Posts: 154
From: south carolina
Dog, I still stand by my statement. I don't use semi-metalic anyway. IMHO ceramic work much better, and don't eat up the rotors.
Old Jan 19, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #30  
solman98's Avatar
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Joined: 07-17-2006
Posts: 6,053
From: Dallas, GA
Originally Posted by ridgebackdog
Okay, everybody keeps talking about the what, but not the why. So, here it is; Semi-metallic brake pads are made of a friction material(the metallic part), and a polyester resin binder(the non-metallic part).
Right out of the box, the polyester resin is not cured, it needs to be gently heat cycled to complete the curing process. If it's overheated before it's cured it will boil to the surface and form a glaze that's actually harder and slicker than the friction material. that's what caused squealing, excessive brake dust(the dust is rotor material!, not pad material), premature pad failure, pad chunking and hard pedal with poor braking performance. None of this applies to organic, kevlar, or ceramic pads.

Also check your owner's manual. Under "New Vehicle Break-In" it states:

"Avoid making hard stops for the first 200 miles(322 km) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings."
Non SS HHR's come with ceramic pads, not semi metallic.



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