It was so nice being able to work on simplified brake systems again. The spousal unit's HHR 2LT had a pretty bad pulsation. So I replaced the rotors with Raybesto's Ultra Premium (Made in China ) but looks like good quality non the less, AC Delco Ceramic pads. Then cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes. Which surprisingly, they weren't too far out of adjustment.

Only took 45 mins to do everything in my drive way. Air tools make short work of a job like this.

Compared to other vehicles I've worked on recently, this was a piece of cake.'

Hopefully it will be awhile before having to do brakes on my HHR SS.

 

I agree these are nice to work on
Although I still do not like the hose shoe clip design that holds the rear shoes on
Guess I was just brought up on the old style pin and spring cup setup

 

The clips do suck. The spring/pin/cup was soooo easy to work on.

 

Is there any literature/video on how to exactly adjust the rear drums. I will admit, I have never done it before, but then again, the majority of my vehicles had rear discs.

 

There are videos on You Tube outlining this procedure. However, I like to get it really close before

First I remove the wheels/drums. You will probably need a decent size hammer to hit the drum to jar it loose. 2 or 3 good whacks, it should free itself. Then carefully pry it off the wheel studs. If that doesn't work, use a good penetrant like PB Blaster (my favorite). Let it sit for 15-20 mins., then whack it again.

Then I clean the entire drum system with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. This allows me to see everything fairly clean. I can then inspect the wheel cylinder for leaks, as well as the condition of the shoes and drums. Remove the window seal on the backing plate. This allows you to fine tune the adjustment once its fully reassembled.

Then use a brake spoon or screwdriver (in a pinch) to adjust the shoes outward. The adjusters for the shoes use a pawl system to help prevent them from backing the shoes away from the drums. That system works really well, the self adjusting part, not so much. The pawls are ramped. So it will only move one direction fairly easily.

I usually give the adjuster 2-3 clicks, then put the drum on and spin it by hand. I continue to do this until the drum will only spin 1 to 1.5 revolutions. Then I reassemble everything. Drum back on, wheels back on with lug nuts torqued to spec. Then I spin the tire by hand. You want the tire to spin roughly 1 time using a pretty good effort. If it spins more than that, use your brake spoon or screwdriver to move the adjuster some more.

Once you reach the 1 revolution per effort spinning the wheel, move to the other side.


Mechanics note: Remove both rear wheels and drums at the same time. But only work on one side at a time. That way, in case something happens, and something falls out, you can use the other side to help you reassemble it.

Also, get a GOOD service manual. If possible, see if your local dealer will allow you to copy theirs.

 

Why not just use the conveniently located "brake adjustment hole" on the inside of the backing plate? Then you don't have to keep R&R ing the drum. With no tire mounted the drum needs some effort to turn, with wheel on barely audible scraping, have you assistant press on the pedal between spins to re center the shoes.


The SS has discs on the rear, just use your parking brake regularly.

 

Do Not use air tools on any brake parts, except to remove the wheels! If that's what you meant, never mind.

 

I've been working on cars professionally for almost 13 years, not including numerous side jobs/personal work I have done over a longer period of time. There is definitely a place to not use air tools, but I'm used to working flat rate, so I do use air tools for everything where need be. Impact guns (3/8) and air ratchets with swivel sockets for caliper bolts and caliper mount bolts. You have your methods, I have mine. My methods work just fine without any type of failure.


I do use the adjustment hole, but not every brake adjuster works exactly the same as far as orientation and direction of adjustment, and in my experience the adjuster doesn't always want to turn. Sometimes you can't get enough leverage from the back to get it to move if it's stuck.

This is how I do things to make sure nothing gets messed up. Besides, with the doing the drum on/off thing, you can make adjustments much faster. If need be you can move the adjuster 8 or 9 clicks as opposed to 3-4 though the "convenient" adjustment hole.

I'm well aware that the SS has rear disc. My wifes 2LT does not, which in my OP was stated.

 

lol they still put drums on economical cars.

 

Well, the important thing is that you cleaned & adjusted them.. That's the key to helping the fronts last longer..

I keep my 2LT Panel rear DRUM brakes adjusted just right.. & stops great !!!