I'm sure if you look for rotors sizes under the category of SS Cobalt,
You;ll probably find they'll fit your SS HHR...

 

Exactly. Here's a straight vane rotor. 99% of all cars come this way. (ok, that's a guess but I think it's conservative also) Most are produced as such just to keep costs down and that there remains very little value to a directional rotor in a daily driver or low speed application. Gas slots or gas vents are "builders choice" with some funky patterns coming up from time to time.....FWIW, I'm rethinking the house kits here to help drop the costs down and this will clearly be one area of savings.




For pure sex appeal I kinda like the Aston-Martin ones.
n-Martin

 

Moving OT a bit here how would folks feel working with a more palatable kit priced in the $700-750 price range? With the option to move to the DP6 caliper as shown elsewhere. Granted such a kit would not be balls-out track worthy but far more appealing to the larger crowd of D2D users.

 

This is a great "how to" on installing rotors and it was a big help to me. I would like to point out however that it is only necessary to remove one of the lower 15mm bolts from the calipers. The short bolt towards the front must come off, but not the blue bolt. It is not a part of the caliper. If I am wrong and my wheel is about to come off going down the road, someone please correct me quickly!

Also, with regards to "directional rotors" - my rotors are EBC and are drilled and slotted. They are marked "R" and "L" on the rotor. The fins inside are not angled, so apparently EBC has the belief they should be put on a special way.

 

ive been thinkin bout buying these
nice how to , mite be handy here soon

i have a 08 ls w/ bout 7k miles on it
and the brakes squeek alot.. what does this mean?

thanks

 

I don't think squeeking is anything to worry about. Might buy some brake clean and spray it on. Biggest problems with stock rotors is they'll probably start shaking when you hit them hard going down a big hill. They warp. Very common with our brakes. You can turn them, but the metal is junk to begin with, so I think it's a waste of time and money.

I put on slotted/drilled with the hopes that a) they are better steel and won't warp. b) the slots/drilled areas serve as a heat sink effect and also allow cool air to keep the temperature down.

Someone on the board mentioned that drilled/slotted are actually worse than standard, and we never did get into that, but I'm betting on that "technology".

I completed my installation tonight in the pouring rain - was fun - and drove down my hill, hit the brakes, and for the first time in 6 months - NO SHAKE!!

 

OH ok. well i will maybe look into some brake cleaner first
then possibly some drilld/slottd rotors. how much are new
rotors?! i just hate pullin up at a drive threw or stop light
and people stare at you like WTF?!

 

halfpanel.......

I would SUGGEST that your squealing MAY be coming from the brake dust that accumulates on the wheel/rotor/calipers. That is the case....many, many times.

The full wheel covers you have may been retaining a lot of the dust. I would think that they do make routine everytime cleaning difficult.

Just a thought.

 

I found a set fr & rr slotted rotors w/race pads for $299 plus $37.00 shipping from top brakes ON EBAY

 

Actually you only need to remove the 2 shorter bolts. Also, I used the CGS slotted rotors. And although they, too, are directional the instructions did not mention it. I wound up putting them on the wrong side (I had a 50-50 chance of getting it right, but naturally Murphey's Law prevailed). Stamped on each rotor, after the part number, is an L or R.