My advice is not to turn the STOCK rotors. They have proven themselves to be very cheap. I do not believe that all rotors are created equal. There are higher quality rotors vs outright junk. The same goes with pads. You get what you pay for.

In regard to the dealers turning junk OE rotors for free, when they are just kicking the can down the road at the lowest possible cost. All some people care about is 'free' and 'cheap' but neglect the true cost over time.

It's always best to solve the problem and replace the cheap OE rotor, instead of trying to treat the symptom of poor brakes with a cheap or 'free' patch job.

 

Once I get this CPS fixed and some more money, the first thing I am going to mod is the breaks. Bigger and dics all around. Chevy should have put better breaks on these things. They should have known how we would drive it...

 

I put Raybestos rotors on ours when I did the brakes and never looked back. The stock rotors developed a wobbble the first time we went on a long drive a couple of years ago. No such problems with these.

 

I whole hardheartedly agree.....I replaced them and didn't (don't) have a problem.

 

For what you pay to have them turned and what a set of replacment rotors cost it is a no brainer just to replace them. It is not like we have to change brakes every 25,000 miles like in days of old. My GTP went over 60,000 in hard city driving.

 

New rotors didn't stop the warping problem for us. I know part of it is the way my wife drives - racing from redlight to redlight and stopping hard. We went through the stock rotors and 3 sets of aftermarket in 82k. That is why we helped my buddy develop the Viper upgrade. The bigger rotor will shed the heat faster and should get rid of the warping problem. But I agree that the price of rotors is not much more than turning... if you buy a stock replacement. If you buy some of the fancy drilled and slotted rotors, which in my opinion are just asking for problems, that changes things.

 

Larger rotors are not a bad thing.

The question is are the rotors really warped?

Rotor Thickness Variation and Hot spots with embedded pad material. are the most common cause and are not warp.

Often people change the rotor but not the worn hub and have repeated issues while the many of us use the same oe rotors [hard] and never have the same issue.

 

In each case for me it has been warped rotors. No doubt. Everything mechanical is still in good shape.

 

Not saying that yours is not a warp issue but I am a firm believe that it often other issues that cause the problems some have repeatedly.

Too many other with the very same parts in the very same conditions never have the problems some of the same people have over and over.

There is a lot of misinformation out there and even some of the brake MFG are careful how they word things to not hurt the sale of highly profitable Drilled rotors.

 

We call them 'break on dotted line' rotors... but yes, they are profitable.