I have not seen anything on the subject, but has anyone changed their inner tie rods, and if so how difficult is it? I could not find a thread on the matter but if I missed one I can delete this post. thanks

 

It is not super hard to do but you do want to keep track of how many turns it takes to get them off so that you can turn the new ones on the same amount. If you don't match the turns then you for sure will need an alignment afterwards. If you match them then chances are you will have the same toe settings but getting an alignment wouldn't hurt for peace of mind.

To remove the old tie rods start by removing the wheel. The you can either remove the castle nut (may not be a true castle nut but for the sake of this I will just refer to it as that) at the knuckle/spindle or you can break free the lock nut on the tie rod. I recommend breaking free the lock nut first so you can get maximum torque. After breaking it free turn it back to snug on the tie rod to prvent it from turning when you remove it from the knuckle. At the knuckle, remove the castle nut and then use a hammer to hit the OLD tie rod end out of the knuckle. Now here is where the counting turns comes in. Be sure to look at the thread direction and start turning the tie rod end off the tie rod. Basically unscrew it. Again be sure to count how many turns it takes to get it off. You can try to mark the threads before you do the first turn too to help but use something that is not iquid as liquid such as whiteout will go under the bolt and give you a false location. The nut can be left in place to help aide with this.

To install the new one screw it on the same amount of turns and then put the ball joint side back into the knuckle. Torque down the castle nut and the lock nut then put the wheel(s) back on nd test drive her. Again an alignment may give you peace of mind even if you do not need any adjustments.

 

I'm not sure if 07azhhr answered your question. The actual answer to your "inner tie rod ends" is :....there aren't any, only outers and they rarely fail. Rack & pinion steering the inner end is part of the rack sort of.

 

thanks Donbrew, I have replaced my outer tie rods twice, but you can buy inner tie rods for the cobalt/hhr chassis, you could be right and the HHR might not have serviceable inner, but I have replaced them on other GM front wheel drive cars and wasn't sure about the HHR. thanks again

 

Ya sorry about that. I just noticed "inner" when I clicked on this thread right now lol. Doh!

 

But your write up was good! I just replaced both outer tie rods (one was bad), and got an alignment--good to go for a while now with the new tires.

The lock nut was on there pretty tight-after breaking it loose, I backed it off half a turn, took off the end, turned the lock nut back half a turn, put on the new end to the nut, then snugged it up.

 

While GM doesn't make the inner tie rod available as a standalone part, aftermarket mfrs (Moog, etc.) do - usually listed as a Tie Rod 'Kit' when you search online.

 

Yes, in the 3 years since this thread died out I was proven wrong. But, I don't know how they could wear out, it would be the rack that wears.

 

I know old thread but somebody raised the dead! It's the pivot ball that can loosen up on the inner end , and you can't count the thread turns in just seat them and torque to spec, check out the pictures in this link

CHEVROLET HHR 2006 - 2 PREMIUM INNER TIE ROD ENDS PAIR FOR LEFT DRIVER AND RIGHT PASSENGER SET KIT TRK3231PR

 

Mechanically speaking, the ball parts don't wear it's the socket that usually does.