Obviously not our rotors... Just happen to stumble on that link after trying to figure out what kind of process (without extreme heat-hense my samarai sword oven comment) would harden rotors. Maybe a type of ceramic coating?

Anyway-if he can get it done for free, he might as well try it.

A co-woker once told me "If it is for free-take it. If you don't like it-sell it".

 

I have had Duralast pads and rotors from Auto Zone on my 2006 for a while now. The pads have a lifetime warranty and the rotors have a 2 year warranty. What this means is you can do a brake job every two years FOR FREE if you wish. I did not use the gold pads. Current online price (same in store) is $24.99 for pads $39.99 each for rotors. That's just over $100 plus tax. I have had absolutely no problems with these brakes. The pads are a bit softer and seem to have taken care of the brake shudder problem.

 

Sometimes the clerk at Zone reads the fine print in the warranty, the part about "manufacturer defects" technically does not apply to "wore out in 40,000 miles". And in my case "commercial use" (70,000 miles a year). It depends on the who you talk to at the counter. The old TrakAuto brake pad warranty was unconditional on the expensive pads, I really liked paying once and changing pads every 3 months.

If I remember Zone's terminology correctly, Gold is Ceramic, the other ones are semi-metallic (makes dust, will wear rotors out faster). No judgement intended, just factoids.

 

O.K. Here's the site for Power Brake. http://powerbrake1.com/

I know that it's about fleet care, but I work in fleet parts delivery which is where I met the guy that will do it free. It's called diamond technology, and from the customers that I spoke to that use it says it's worth the money. Mine will be free though. I figure I should just go to the parts store, get a set of regular rotors and give it a try. Should I go with the ceramic pads?

 

Whatever you decide to do with your choice of rotors, go with ceramic pads, they last longer and leave virtually no brake dust to corrode your wheels and dirty them up.

Now please take the time to clean and adjust the rear brakes, or you'll just be throwing away your money. The self-adjustors on the HHR just don't work worth a darn, so if you want the maximum trouble free miles out of your front brakes. Adjust the rears every oil change or 5,000 miles whichever comes first.

 

I just got off the phone with the guy at power brake and he said that he is backed up for 2 weeks. I can't ride on these rotors for another 2 weeks. I have an advance auto parts within a mile of my house, what should I stay away from in rotors and pads?

 

I went with AER grooved rotors & ceramic pads, can of Brake cleaner spray,cleaned a lubed the slides wiwth silicone brakee lube for $129.50 last April, no warpage yeet!!

 

If you're going to use Advance Auto Parts, you might as well use the best stuff they offer, here are links for rotors and pads.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RUMAMS_____BBV

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPBRCOAMS_____

You'll have to call you local store for pricing, and make sure you adjust those rear brakes when you work on your HHR.

 

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on your suggestion. Order was $113 for in store pick up tomorrow. What tools do I need to do a brake job on this car? I haven't done brakes on my car yet and I want to have everything I need before I start to take things apart.

 

Caliper piston tool and basic set of 3/8 sockets (1/2" would be better). Brake grease, cleaner, and pad grease. Not a hard job.

FWIW, ATE rotors are the way to go, but I see you've gotten some rotors.