I've got a problem I've never experienced before; maybe some of yoy guys have had this problem, too.

It's been awhile since I posted here, last time was 05-15-2021 https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/maintenance-upkeep-50/c-clutch-suddenly-stopped-engaging%3B-no-prior-problem-63864/page3/#post910945. I haven't had another problem with the HHR since, and turned it over to the wife to use, while her Cobalt ABS problem persists (1.75 years, with everything except ABS module replaced). She has driven it daily, while I have driven my '01 BMW X5 project car, that I traded my old Chevelle for a week after that last post. I've maintained tires/fluids etc on the HHR, but not driven it very often.

So, it was a complete surprise (ha,ha,ha) when she got home from a long hot drive two days ago, saying her brakes are making noise. I immediately drove it around the block, confirming that once again, she had gone way too long before reporting a problem. When I removed the pads and rotors, they were metal to metal. So far, she's driven the brakes off three cars, the clutch off of two, blew the master cylinder on two (she stomps on brakes, a lot), and drove her Fiero until it stopped, after losing oil pressure (with oil pressure gauge flashing at her). I thought she had learned to read gauges and sounds, but alas not!

As she's going out of town for eight days, starting tomorrow, I thought I'd try to fix the HHR for her, since our back-up pickup, a '98 GMC, uses more gas, and the tires are getting old (for a long trip in Texas summer heat). She won't drive my '04 2500 HD (rides too rough), and the BMW X5 is off-limits. Therefore, on my limited repair budget,

Detroit Axle parts have worked well, before now
I bought a set of Detroit Axle pads & rotors (I've used them on the GMC, Cobalt, and even the HHR before, with good results). $100 for all. Then the problems started....

Las September, I had my left arm swell up triple size with a blood clot, which weakened my already almost-useless left arm (old elbow injury), so changing pads and rotors isn't easy one-handed, especially in 102+ degrees, under an Ezy-Up in my sandy driveway. After 2+ hours of struggling with it (the stainless hardware barely fit, making pad insertion a bear), I pumped the brakes to restore pedal feel, then started the engine, put it in gear, and revved it up a bit...only to hear a clattering from the right axlr and got a LOW TRACTION on the display. Tried maving the calipers on the slide pins (hardly any movement on either side; the slide pins were cleaned and regreased this morning), and removed and reinstalled the calipers and pads on both sides (in an hour; not easy using basically one arm). Same result.

Nearly heat-exhausted (I'm 71), I'm giving up for tonight. My only thought is that the new pads or the rotors or the combination of both is just too tight for the rotors to spin. I tried using a screwdriver in the rotor cooling slots to turn them, which I could (in neutral), but they're tight.

Tomorrow morning, after packing-off the wife in the truck, I'm going to re-check the caliper bolts, put the wheels back on, take it down from the jackstands, and drive it around the block (1/2 mile) no matter what the display says. I'm confident in my work, but never saw pads/rotors so tight. Maybe it'll wear them down quickly. I just don't like the clatter the drive axle made, nor the warning message. But should I try another set of pads (possibly thinner) before that?

EDIT: just thought of something...what if I accidently switched caliper brackets, right for left, when I was cleaning/greasing/attaching hardware to them? I had laid them on a cardboard sheet in the bed of the GMC pickup, which I was using as a workbench, next to the HHR. I went inside for a cool drink, and came back to find that the caliper brackets & slide pins had gotten blown off the cardboard by the gusty wind. I couldn't tell which one was which, as I compared the brackets. So, I cleaned them again, and cleaned/greased the slide pins (putting the rubber bushing-ended pin on the topside, for each caliper). I had no trouble matching mounting holes, and I carefully compared each bracket to see any difference...I found none.

 

Hey,
I sympathize with your problem and am impressed with how you solve it,
let me have some thoughts on this:
1. You can't put caliper brackets wrong even if you mixed them up initially. The design of the bracket will not allow you to put it in any other way - only the regular position, regardless of right or left;
2. I see "HHR LS Panel 2.2l" on your signature, but the brake pads in your picture don't look like the product for this car. Maybe it's the SS or another Chevrolet. Check just in case, here is a picture of the correct brake pad.


3 Standard thickness of the brake pad and brake rotor found by me on Rockauto. Measure your iron. If the sizes do not match, you may have the wrong parts, mixed up when buying. There are also "repair" brake pads. They contain thicker linings and are designed for vehicles with excessively worn rotors. Make sure your parts are standard.
ROTOR: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...%2FuOFfA%3D%3D
BRAKE PADS: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...%2FuOFfA%3D%3D
4. If the previous one is not your case, take a closer look at the caliper piston. You wrote that your lady used the brake pads over 100% of their possibility - this means that the caliper piston also worked in an abnormal position, it was pushed out of its socket beyond measure. Often, under such circumstances, it is difficult to push it back, the caliper piston jams (rust, surface irregularities, bent rubber cuffs, etc.). It is treated by: or extracting, polishing the caliper piston; or buying a repair kit; or replacement of the caliper;
5. According to the circumstances described in paragraph 4, the guide brackets of the caliper may be damaged. Inspect them visually, they should be even, smooth and free of nicks and burrs. And they must be lubricated. If not, replace the guide brackets of the caliper. Also make sure that the brake pads are not skewed diagonally and move freely inside the caliper.
IMPORTANT!! Be careful when handling the caliper piston. Very powerful hydraulics, able to tear off fingers!
Good luck

 

Thanks for your response! Here's what I've found, so far:
1) You can't put caliper brackets wrong even if you mixed them up initially. I thought not, considering the way they matched so well, and the fact that my mentor never tagged them when I was cleaning them at his shop. Plus, I read that last night before bed. But why two part numbers? Makes no sense.

2) I see "HHR LS Panel 2.2l" on your signature, but the brake pads in your picture don't look like the product for this car. The Detroit Axle P/N is P-1160, which says it's for '06-'11 HHR with rear drums, leaving out the SS (with rear discs). And, I laid the old A/C delco pads on top of the new ones...same size, same shape.

3) Standard thickness of the brake pad and brake rotor found by me on Rockauto. Measure your iron. If the sizes do not match, you may have the wrong parts, mixed up when buying. There are also "repair" brake pads. They contain thicker linings and are designed for vehicles with excessively worn rotors. Make sure your parts are standard. The rotors are stamped the same 1.024 thickness as listed, but I'll have to pull the new pads to check (I'll measure the rotors too).

4) If the previous one is not your case, take a closer look at the caliper piston. Both pistons looked normal, even the rubber sleeves. I had to use my brake piston compressor tool to move them in 100%, before I could fit the caliper over the new pads (further than I've needed to, before). However, they moved in evenly, smoothly, which indicates no damage, to me.

5) The guide brackets of the caliper may be damaged. Inspect them visually, they should be even, smooth and free of nicks and burrs. And they must be lubricated. I think that theill-fitting new stainless hardware may be causing the pads to hang-up, and I may have washed off the lubricant after spraying the brakes several times during my re-fitting/troubleshooting attempts last evening, Working on sand, using one hand (mostly), I just couldn't keep them clean. I think I'll try the old, rusted hardware (with lubricant applied), this next install, after measurements are taken; the ears on the pads might fit looser...on the new hardware, they can hardly move.

Also, about the LOW TRACTION warning, and the clatter sound from the drive axle: could it just be the fact that the front end is in the air, without wheels mounted, that's causing this symptom? I've never tested brakes this way before, having always just put the wheels back on and test drive immediately. The traction control may be kicking-in because there's no load or rolling resistance. I thought of this last night at 3 a.m.

 

Never hang the front suspension and drive the front axles, you may have damaged the cv axle joints from to much angle!

 

Check that hardware 1st.
If that all checks out OK, then you may have a master cylinder that is not releasing pedal pressure. Could also be the reason the brakes got worn to metal/metal----"aka" your wife didn't notice the brakes were dragging for the last couple of months.

 

Worn out brake flex hoses can swell and cause brake drag.

 

I went outside and checked the specs, re-lubed (found another lube packet) the stainless hardware (fitting better now), and confirmed all bolts were tightened again, put on the wheels, took it down off the jack stands, and ran the bedding procedure. No noise, no warnings, no problem.

I know Oldblue is correct about hanging the CV joints (causing the chatter); I only revved it just a bit last night, low rpms, so I hope no damage was done. I'll never repeat that mistake.

I checked the master cylinder prior to ordering pads & rotors; it looked good, and the pedal feel was good (unlike on the Cobalt, when she blew that MC). During the bedding procedure, the pedal was great.

I was in a rush, hot, tired, and hurting while trying to fix the HHR before dark last night. Frustrated with my physical short-comings and working conditions, I wasn't thinking clearly, either, so I turned again to you guys. Always with great suggestions and solutions. Thanks to all!

 

You’re welcome, we are always here to help!

 

As a follow-up, I've been driving the HHR while the wife's out of town, breaking in the new brakes and making sure that the CV joints weren't damaged. I noticed rather quickly (in 103 degree afternoon heat, after parking for an hour, while shopping), that the A/C was only cooling down to 55 degrees at the center vent. So I checked the system, and put in R134A with sealant, and it now cools to 40; it's never been touched before, so after 175000 miles and 13.5 years, I figured it's past due (one other of our vehicles, the '98 GMC, needs topping up every year,.. never found the leak, though I tried once with dye).

I also washed it, before it got hot(ter) yesterday morning, and restored the headlights, while still under 95 degrees, and will clean the inside (my wife's notoriously messy in cars), if I wait 'til near dark, when the driveway is in full shade. 103-105 in direct sun is hard to work in, but I'm trying to make amends for inflcting my wife on it. I hadn't let her drive the HHR for its' first dozen years of life. She doesn't care about them...she never cleans her tools either. Go figure.

 

That can will last a couple years maybe more.