ok the sway links i took off did not have that, ended up having to use a grinder. the new ones i put on do have that there, big difference.

now i need help, i got it all together. took it around the block heard a loud loose noise. get it home and the nut on top of the strut wasnt tighten down all the way. so i went to tighten it and the whole thing spins.

how do you tighten down top strut nut number 16 in the picture.

 

Did you try an impact gun? I don't recall the torque specs for that nut, but if you dial back the impact gun, overtorque shouldn't be an issue.

I forget. Did you get quick struts and the nuts were left loose from the factory? Or were the nuts left loose by you (oh crap) when swapping parts.

 

There's a special gm tool, but I used vice grips with a rag to hold the shaft

 

get the wheel in the air first to load up the strut..then you'll have to use an impact gun..only way with out the special tools..you'll never get it tight enough by hand unless the strut shaft is locked down. Even with a rag you chance biting into the metal with vise grips. Wouldnt worry about over torquing the nut..it'll take over a 100ftlbs easily.Set the impact in the middle range. Also, if you dont have one, they make electric impact guns..Harbor Freight..Northern Hydraulics..maybe lowes..always handy to have.

 

I ended up taking it down road small mechanic. Who let me use his impact and tools to tighten it down. So now is tight. Get a better compressor soon since I have the tools just need the air.

 

proper tools always make the job way easier, glad you got the job done

 

Thanks. I really like the fe5 suspension paired to the broken crap that was on there. It did lower it some. There was more wrong then planned but did it all. Thanks for all the help. This is a great forum.

 

Dont want to start a new thread so ill ask in here, especially since its about suspension. I saw our ball joints were weak. Instead of pressing them Ill just replace the Lower CA, is there a difference in CAs, should I look for a different model then LS etc?

 

no use the LS model as the FE5 SS ball joints have a bigger knuckle pin, or just drill out the rivets and replace ball joint with Moog greasable ball joints, it is not a hard job and while you're at it with the LC arm out press out the rear bushing and replace it

 

There is an option for fe1 or fe3. Which should I go with. Imo I would feel better replacing while am instead of just bushings with all problems already ran into