Lake Runner

I need to replace the passenger side steering knuckle and ball joint. I was looking for used knuckles but questioned whether mine has active brake control or not.
Mine is a 2008 2LT with 2.4. Front disc rear drums ABS sensors, yaw sensors, JL4 and JM4 on glove box RPO decal. Is there any difference between the steering knuckles? I see from the RPO list that I have Active Brake Control JL4.

Cat Man HHR

From what I'm digging up is the yaw sensor ( looks like a small rectangle box) is mounted in the front for the Active Brake Control. The ABS control box and brake booster are different than an HHR that does not have the RPO JL4. Knuckle should be the same.
Are you getting one that has the hub installed ?
Ball joint is on the control arm. You can, if you like, just replace the ball joint.
Are you changing the knuckle because of a noise ?

RJ_RS_SS_350

I didn't think there was any electrical components on the knuckle.
#7 in the image here.
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...ey_model=14513

Cat Man HHR

RJ
He hasn't said yet if he's just changing the knuckle with or without a hub.
Better yet. Why is he doing it ? Unless the ball joint, he wants to replace, damaged it ?

RJ_RS_SS_350

He didn't mention hub, he said steering knuckle and ball joint, which are fit to each other. Although steering knuckles don't usually need replacement.

Cat Man HHR

Let's see if we get an answer back from him.

firemangeorge

Well. Based on an old thread by the OP Lake Runner, looks like he's already dealt with this before. I too wonder why he's rehashing this.
Here's the link to his previous thread:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...acement-57482/

donbrew

Most of the "used" knuckles I've seen are complete assemblies; everything from the strut to the brakes;. I suspect that is the reason for the question from the parts guy, the hubs are different ABS has wheel speed sensor.
Junkyard disassemblers unbolt at the most convenient/fastest point. In this case cut the brake line pop the ball joint out remove 3 bollt from the strut tower, give part to warehouse done in 5 minutes.

Lake Runner

Sorry about not getting back sooner. The reason I'm replacing the knuckle is due to a loose fit with the ball joint. I have replaced the lower control arm twice on this side. I was trying to isolate a knocking sound from the front end. Replaced sway bar links and noise stopped for 2-3 weeks, then similar noise is back after a hard braking incident. Up an down play on ball joint was found, and it had been torqued in steps properly. The ball joint stud is stuck on something in the knuckle and will not come out. I have not used a pickle fork yet. I had issues getting the ball joint and knuckle separated on this side when I replaced the control arm. I want to eliminate this condition once and for all. Presently I am recovering from Rotator Cuff surgery and won't be able to work on it for a few weeks, so I want to get parts lined up. The Hub bearing is good by the way, so I am looking for a bare knuckle. I had taking this front end apart so many times that doing it in a U Pull It place is not an issue. Seems that the reason that this keeps becoming a problem , is that I drive into New Orleans everyday. And if you've been there, then you know how bad the streets are.

donbrew

Are you sure you have a 2LT not an SS? An SS has turbo and a completely different knuckle, ball joint and LCA. The ball joint on that comes on LCA assemblies is smaller than the SS.

The ball joint stud is held in by the bolt; you have to completely remove the bolt.