Steering knuckle replacement.
#11
The stud of the ball joint should slip right out after removing the pinch bolt. All knuckles/ball joints are the same for all LS/LT models and years. Buy new from Rock Auto, install your hub on new knuckle. Pictures would help.
#12
Definitely a 2LTand not an SS. Yes, I had removed the bolt. I had torqued the bolt according to the manual every time I had it apart. Also, when I was trying to eliminate the noise I loosened and retorqued both ball joint bolts.
#13
I am really confused now! Is the ball joint stud loose in the knuckle or not? If was loose it would not be stuck in the knuckle. The knuckle is not the problem.
I am thinking you are doing something very wrong.
I am thinking you are doing something very wrong.
#14
Don, when the ball joint nut is tightened as specified in the manual, there is still play in the ball joint stud/steering knuckle. When I removed the bolt to take the ball joint out, the ball joint would only come out about 3/8-1/2 inch. Either the ball joint or the knuckle has a problem. Therefore, I want to replace both. Looking online, the Doorman steering knuckle no. 697-910 IIRC is cast iron with no cutout for speed sensor that my aluminum steering knuckle has. I would think this would be for the w/o Active Brake option.
#15
What cutout for speed sensor? The wire comes out the back.
Some incorrect parts must have been used at some point; this sounds too odd.
I am finding 19303852 & 19308351 For all years HHR except SS. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/?p=cat...=hhr%20knuckle
Some incorrect parts must have been used at some point; this sounds too odd.
I am finding 19303852 & 19308351 For all years HHR except SS. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/?p=cat...=hhr%20knuckle
#17
Don, there is an area of the hole for the hub bearing that is radiused out for the speed sensor wire to pass through. It is not a perfect circle. The image I saw of the Doorman cast iron knuckle did not have that feature.
The current knuckle on the vehicle is original. When I replaced the lower control arm due to worn bushings, it was very difficult to get the right side ball joint to come out. Driver side had no issues. Second time I replaced the passenger side control arm was due to play in the ball joint. Again, difficulty removing ball joint. Note: At present this vehicle has 273k miles. I will try to locate an image of the cutout I'm talking about.
The current knuckle on the vehicle is original. When I replaced the lower control arm due to worn bushings, it was very difficult to get the right side ball joint to come out. Driver side had no issues. Second time I replaced the passenger side control arm was due to play in the ball joint. Again, difficulty removing ball joint. Note: At present this vehicle has 273k miles. I will try to locate an image of the cutout I'm talking about.