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sway bar for HHR

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Old 05-29-2010, 06:42 PM
  #11  
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The seemly concern about hollow vs solid sway bars: hollow sway bars are a lot stronger in bending than solid bars. Ask anyone than does race car fabrication why they use hollow bar stock instead of solid bar stock. Hollow bar stock has a memory and will go back to orignal shape, where is solid bar will retain far less memory, and stay bent somewhat.
Seems some here, are concerned about hollow sway bars, and should'nt be.
"Moon"
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:21 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by IgottaWoody
ewwww....I dont suggest jacking in the center of the beam...its really flexible and Id be worried about putting a small un-noticable tweak there and knocking out the rear alignment...(camber).... its not made for this.
Well, I checked before ever doing it & according to 2 different Chevy Dealers, that is where they say is best to jack it up at in the rear...

Where would you position the floor jack ?

This is what the repair manual states:

2007 Chevrolet HHR | HHR (VIN A) Service Manual | Document ID: 1211728
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(snip)

Automotive Lift and Floor Jack Contact Points


(1) Frame Contact Lift-Front Location
(2) Frame Contact Lift-Rear Location
(3) Floor Jacking-Rear Location

Vehicle Lifting-Frame Contact Lift
Front Lift Pads
When lifting the vehicle with a frame-contact lift, place the front lift pads 6.69 in (170 mm) from the front pinchweld flanges.

Rear Lift Pads
When lifting the vehicle with a frame-contact lift, place the rear lift pads 2.17 in (55 mm) from the rear pinchweld flanges.

Vehicle Jacking
Under the Center of the Rear Suspension
Lift the rear of the vehicle by placing the floor jack lift pad at the center of the rear suspension.


(snip)

Last edited by sleeper; 05-29-2010 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:10 PM
  #13  
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I tried that one day, out of habit until I saw how far the beam flexed before the car actualy started lifting..Was not comfortable with 15-1800 lbs on one spot... if the beam was fully trianglated it would be diff....I use the hitch ..
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:27 PM
  #14  
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Appreciate your reply..
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:48 PM
  #15  
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eibach away bar

I fianssly had a c hance to try out the sway bar drove on a curvy mountain road I have driven hundreds of time some of the curves i had always would feel cautious at 50 mph today found I was driveing at 70 mph and felt good it made a diffrence,very happy with the sway bar.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jay loukakis
I fianssly had a c hance to try out the sway bar drove on a curvy mountain road I have driven hundreds of time some of the curves i had always would feel cautious at 50 mph today found I was driveing at 70 mph and felt good it made a diffrence,very happy with the sway bar.
Cool, ever think of plugging the open ends of the bar to prevent internal rust ?
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:43 AM
  #17  
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Thumbs up

it is tubular with the ends welded and flatened worked better than expected.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jay loukakis
it is tubular with the ends welded and flatened worked better than expected.
Good, I have never saw an Eibach rear bar, But their stuff seems to always be top notch.. Thanks...
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:05 PM
  #19  
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Question

Originally Posted by bassbase
There is only one way to install it and mine also sits a bit lower than the stock bar. Mine is pretty heavy too and is not hollow.

What's with the 4 bottom coils all compressed against each other there on the right? Are those Goldline springs? I have the Eibachs and they are compressed on the top...

Nice bracelet, BTW...
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:24 PM
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Yeah, they are Goldlines.
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