I am replacing the rt ft wheel bearing again. this will will be the 2nd time since Ocotber. About 2 weeks ago I got the ABS and the TC light on at the same time. Now I am hearing some light growling from rt ft. My question is this, the bearings are very easy to install but does anyone know how to set the preload on the bearings. I have had to do this with several other cars. I don't have a manual for this one.

Other cars I have done stated to install bearing assembly put wheel back on and put weight back onto assembly. Torque center nut to xx ft lbs and back off xx turn and retorque to new value.

Does anyond know if this type of procedure applies to the 06 hhr.

Thanks
Theront

 

Pull the old one off. Put the new one on. Torque to 85 lb ft and you are good to go.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. That is how the other was done, but failed in a short amount of time.

Thanks
Theront

 

Just curious, did you replace with a GM part, or aftermarket? If it was aftermarket, where was it from?

 

This might be a dumb question but are you replacing both bearings and the "races". Always replace everything and clean out old lube.Spotless.It's funny how metal shavings from the old failed bearing can tear up a new one in no time.

 

These are sealed hub bearings, no maintenance and no lube needed.

 

The 85ftlb number is for the 3 bolts which hold the bearing assembly. The "axle shaft nut" is what controls the preload on the bearing and should be torqued (no guessing here).

Problem: The manual I have (factory manual in a pdf format) sucks and has a number of discrepancies in it. The wheel nut torque is one of them. In the section "Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement-Front" the "axle nut" torque is listed as 81ftlbs. In the next section "Steering Knuckle Replacement" the same part now called a "wheel drive shaft nut" is torqued at 155ftlbs. Big difference.

My 20+ years of experience says the 155ftlbs is correct, but I would try to confirm that since gross over/under torquing of this bolt can lead to a shortened bearing life. Maybe someone can verify this from another manual.

Though the manual doesn't specify (that I could find) do yourself a favor and torgue the axle nut with the wheel unloaded(off the ground). That means you'll need a friend to hold the brake pedal while you torque.

If you follow the above then there's no reason why you can't get a decent life span out of the new bearing. Other things to consider are the type of wheels you have installed. If you have custom wheels with the wrong offset this can lead to extra stress on the bearing assembly and shorten the life as well.

Hope this helps. Gene

 

Most techs use a impact on the axle nut. But it is 155 lb ft.

 

Wow! That wouldn't fly in any shop I ever worked/managed. Torque by any other name (or device) is not torque. :) Our rule was impact off, torque wrench on, with very few exceptions.

On the other hand, if I saw a tech impact my axle nut, I would request a new part and a new tech or at least one who was teachable. I've just seen these "simple" repairs go south to quickly when procedures were not followed. If I'm going to pay dealer labor rates, I want things done "by the book".

ChevyMgr, are you still in the biz? I changed careers about 4 years ago, but still do some consulting/mediation. Gene

 

Thanks for all the responses. It is a new hub bearing bought from Oreillys auto. Never had problems with parts before. I did both bearings couple of months ago. The rt ft was growling while moving, wasn't brake related or tires. The new one on the rt ft is growling again. I have the bearing assembly now just need to do it. It takes longer to jack the car up than it does to change the hub out. I always use impact for snugging things up but finish with ratchet or torque wrench. This depends on what I am doing. I even torque wheel studs after tire removal and reinstall. I have had some warped rotors due to improper torque on the studs.

Thanks again.

Theront