It’s got the 2.4L with a auto. 161,000 miles and sometimes more then others it shifts hard into 3rd-4th and it’s kinda slow on acceleration at times. Other times these issues go away. Just had a shop scan it and look over all the electrical and said all was good and things it’s mechanical. Myself I have never worked on these cars and removed and installed my transmission on my z28 once which was easy compared to these cars. So scared to mess with it myself. Shop said his buddy owns a transmission shop and probably looking at $1500-$1800 atleast for a rebuild plus labor. Then like $3500ish for a refurbished trans.. I changed the fluid and filter months ago but the HHR has only seen maybe 100miles since then and has sat since just recently and problem had gone away but showed back up other day. Shop said to flush it would probably be a waste as thinks mechanical. Any thoughts?

 

Maybe check the fluid level.

 

Thanks but it did this before I even had changed it and yes checked and it’s perfect.

 

Try a battery lobotomy, sometimes resetting the TCM and ECM cam help. It might be a shift solenoid problem

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...olenoid-61313/

It could be bent or loose pins in the TCM connector

 

I would keep a close eye on the digital temperature. It should get up to 180 in less than 5 minutes then hang around over 180 usually around 190.

 

Sometimes the VVT valves sticking can cause TC and shifting problems.

 

Steve- I will try the battery idea and see if that works. I had to replace both of the VVT at 140,000 mark as one was acting up and other was showing signs of getting clogged. They are factory replacements so should not need replaced yet.. I didn’t go into full detail with the guy at the shop that drove the HHR with the computer on it checking on the transmission but like I said it showed him no stored codes I’m assuming in general, as never had any lights come on.
Don- haven’t paid to much attention lately as rarely ever drive the HHR anymore since this has happened but when I did drive it just took it easy and shifts weren’t as bad as normal driving. Other times it would just stop and shift fine. So if the temp takes to long to heat up does that mean a line is clogged? Let’s say on a 50 degree day from a cold start sitting in the driveway warming up, how long should it take?

 

Only way for a transmission shop to figure out the issue would be for them to drop the transmission correct? Since no codes. That’s a great read with that link, but don’t have room in the garage to tear this apart. I have no transmission experience so not about to try this by myself and no one I know does either to help out.

 

Blownz,
When I start out in the morning 'Toughie' hits 190 degrees before I get to the freeway that is 1.5 miled from my house.
So I would say 5 minutes max to operating temp.
Now I must state that I live in AZ and a freezing temp in very rare.

 

Ambient temp doesn't make a lot of difference. If it takes too long and does not get to >180 in a computed time the t-stat is probably stuck open.

The t-stat's job is to keep the temp OVER 180F. Keeping it below 220 is the radiator/fan's job.

Many codes will not ever cause a CEL, some take more than one in more than one drive cycle. The ones that get stored are the ones that cause a CEL.