Well with time being sort of meaningless with everything closed because of Coronavirus, I figure I’ll finally dump a bunch of pictures and do a write up of the swap.

My first ss was my first car that wasn’t a piece of ****, I’ve owned it for about 7 years now and it’s still really clean. The only problem with it was that it was automatic. When the gt2871 died on it, I decided to swap transmissions before putting my built motor and S257sxe in, so at least I could sell some automatic parts when it’s done.

Swap master cylinder reservoirs.

You have to pull the dash and drivetrain to install the brake and clutch pedals and weld the plate for clutch master cylinder bracket. (Although maybe you could leave most of it in if you pull the brake master cylinder)

You need to pull the auto shifter and cable and replace with the manual shifter and cables for whatever transmission you choose.

The shifter base bolts right to the floor. OTTP shifters are tall enough that it doesn’t feel too low. Be careful you don’t spin the studs because then it’s hard to get tight and you might have to get creative to secure it. You can’t run shifter bushings because the studs won’t reach, so you need to grind out the bottom of the shifter base for clearance if you have an aftermarket cable clamp.

I used the original computer and harness with the transmission stuff deleted. You leave the black “transmission gear selector” plugged in and set in neutral. You’ll have to raise your neutral limiter to redline.

I used the original rad.

I used OTTP mounts

The manual shifter fits where the auto did, no need to change consoles. You need to bypass the brake switch for it to start. (Ultimate anti theft lol). You should probably put that on a switch or your brake lights won’t turn off. Ask me how I know.

My axle setup is a little strange because I wanted it running this year, but it works. Grand am cv’s and a spacer for the passenger side. But you could use either base model hubs and axles and g6 knuckle or ss axles depending on what transmission you pick. DSS said they’d make custom F23 passenger side axles for $800usd for 2 for equal length axles if used with a vue intermediate shaft and grand am drivers side cv.

I picked up a junkyard 2007 F23 from a base model. They got the updated synchros and kept 4.17fdr. I added team green LSD, LNF F35 TOB/ clutch pipe/ distribution block and gave it some new axle seals.

Things that don’t work: speed sensor (I run it off gps), electronic stability control, abs, launch control/traction control (I use a wot box)

Price estimate: $2500 or less and I used some real nice parts.

time estimate: I think it could be done in 12 hours or less if you had everything ready and now knowing what to expect. It took me weeks of wrenching for an hour once a week to prep it for the swap, the swap itself was straightforward.

Hopefully this can serve as a guide to anybody swapping in the future. I can update the thread if anybody needs any other pictures or explanation.


Separating the automatic from the LNF

Master cylinder reservoir

Fancy F23. 4.17lsd with F35 goodies and braided line

Entire dash pulled out to get the old pedals out and new ones in and to work on the firewall

Clutch master cylinder bracket before being cut to fit

The bracket after being grinded to fit into the firewall

All bolted together

LONG BOI cv shaft, receiving my special spacer any day now.

Had to tear out the dash to get the pedals in

Just put in a new ottp shifter and cable clamp to replace the B&M one I found in a junkyard. Still using an aluminum B&M pin and a new shifter bushing kit with it. Need to dremel the bottom of the base to clear the cable clamp

Back in October before I stored it for the year.

 

I needed to grind the shifter base to clear the cable clamp because you need to bolt the shifter directly to the floor with no bushings.

New ottp short throw

Got the clutch harness out of a ss/tc parts car. Going to wire it to my wot box

 

Nice write up. I'm actually about to start the swap in my buddies auto hhr.

Question.

The hubs. Base model axles don't fit in the auto ss hubs, correct? As far as the abs goes. Is that the same between the base model of similar year and the ss? Or am I better off with the grand am axles and the vue half shaft, with using the stock hubs? I knew id have to make a spacer either way.

If I have to swap to base model knuckles and hubs I will, but I believe I read somewhere about the abs being different. Or maybe it was the lnf to lsj.

 

Relatively, how easy would it be to replace the firewall pedal insert panel?

 

The abs sensor’s function the same JL4 RPO code. The splines are different

The SS

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ing+&+hub,1636

and tge LS/LT

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ing+&+hub,1636

 

I dont get it. Wouldn't be a lot more practical to sell the car and buy manual one?

 

I agree, but some times it’s hard to let go!

 

impossible since the parts discontinued, but that bracket holds the master cylinder better than stock

 

it was a florida car and had never seen winter, a clean chassis is much harder to find than a g85 ss in canada. I wasn’t going to use the F35 transmission/axles/mounts/cables/shifter etc anyways

 

im using the grand am axles without a spacer. Might run a custom intermediate shaft and base model axles, g6 knuckles and base model hubs. I dont have abs but it doesnt bother me