Drivetrain (Excluding Engine) Transmission, axles, clutches or other drive-line related discussion.

Removing the Auto Trans

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Old 01-28-2021, 06:30 AM
  #11  
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Yes, unbolted the 3 flywheel bolts and yes all the mounts are unbolted.

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Old 01-28-2021, 08:11 PM
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Then there is nothing holding the torque converter to the engine side.

The torque converter will be sitting on a spline on the transmission side, which should provide enough resistance to prevent it from pulling out, since its loose on the engine side.

Still, as you pull the transmission away from the engine, watch the torque converter and make sure its going with the transmission. You don't want it to drop onto a hard surface and get damaged.

There are two (if I remember correctly) dowel pins that locate the transmission precisely to the engine. When you remove the bolts, the transmission won't drop down until you separate it from the engine about 1/2 inch, at which point it is free to drop. Watch out, it's pretty heavy and tends to tip to one side.

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Old 02-02-2021, 12:42 AM
  #13  
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Just a thought - this as you have found is a fair amount of work. I would run used transmission by a local shop and have them install a new pump seal and filter and do a visual inspection. Also be very careful to get the correct amount of fluid in it. Many transmissions have been damaged by running low fluid and overfilling is a problem also. I never understood why they didn't add a dipstick but all things being right these are great transmissions
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Old 02-02-2021, 07:11 AM
  #14  
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The 4T45E transmission, does not have a dipstick, just like it’s predecessors , since the early 90’s , they were deemed to be a long lasting transmission, no need to worry about fluid level unless you see evidence of a fluid leak.
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Old 02-02-2021, 08:06 AM
  #15  
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Exactly my point

That is correct- however you are installing a used transmission and obviously fresh fluid and filter along with a pump seal would be a good idea IMO - so getting the fluid level is important- with no dipstick this requires a little different than norm fill procedure. With all the effort to change the transmission I would be careful to do this correctly. Just my opinion
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Old 02-02-2021, 08:31 AM
  #16  
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Yes, a different fill method, but with the dipstick fill tube method, it was so much easier to over fill!
With the fill level plug, when it’s full , the excess fluid drips out!
You can’t get an accurate fluid level with a transmission on the bench , it has to be filled with a new filter, 7 quarts, I pour in 6 1/2 quarts, then start the HHR, and warm up the transmission fluid, then pour in the last 1/2 quart, with the fill plug out, and the transmission in neutral, engine idling,when the fluid comes out, it’s full! I check it again in a 100 miles or so, because of my OCD!
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Old 02-08-2021, 01:29 PM
  #17  
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OK guys, still can't get the trans to separate from the engine. I have tried prying along the bottom and front and it's like the trans will start to separate but still what seems to be a lot of resistance. Almost seems like there is still one bolt still attached, maybe somewhere on the top or back side of the trans. I did get the one bolt that was under the radiator hose that is attached to what looks like a thermostat housing. I have got all the obvious tran mounts removed, it just seems like there is another bolt somewhere.

Is there another engine/trans bolt on the back side of the trans?

Thanks for the help,
JimW
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Old 02-08-2021, 03:33 PM
  #18  
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This counts 9 bolts, torque spec is 55 ft lbs

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...s-59171/page2/
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Old 02-08-2021, 05:35 PM
  #19  
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Did you get the trans to motor mount off? #6 on this pic, I think. I am absolutely sure it does exist, but can't find it anywhere now. One end bolts to the trans the other to the motor. I had to replace one that got cracked in the engine swap.



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Old 02-08-2021, 07:37 PM
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Asked in post #10, answered in post #11
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