I need to remove the transmission and replace it with a used one (MY 11, 2.2 motor). Current transmission is stuck in a forward low gear and won't shift. This is a result of a damaged pan and driving with little to no ATF.

A couple of questions, a lot of the references in the manual refer to unbolting the electrical panel that sits above the trans in order to allow better access. I have tried to do this but the panel doesn't move that much because of all the wiring bundles limit how much it can move. Does this sound about right?

I am currently trying to remove the axles, I have them free from the control arm but can't get the inner CV joint to come loose from the trans. Manal says use a pry bar and don't pull on the axle shaft or you might damage the CV joint. Not much success using a large screw driver, not a lot of room for a real pry bar. And the inner joint is pretty smooth, can't get a lot of grip. Anybody have any tricks of the trade is getting the inner joints free?

First day of this project so I'm sure there will be plenty more questions to come.

Thanks for a very helpful Forum,
JimW
Stokesdale, NC

 

I just use a pry bar between the axle and transmission housing, on a bolt preferably


shows pickle fork method
this next one shows prybar method


as for removal are you dropping it out the bottom? Or trying to pull it out the top?

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...e-62657/page6/

here is some information

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...d-61313/page9/

and this one, it’s about a manual transmission but the principal is the same.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...mission-62353/

 

Another way is a slide hammer. A large bent screwdriver works good; you need that bit of an angle.

All of those wire bundles resolve to 2-3 connectors on the bottom of the fuse box. The box is 3 layers take the top layer off (with the fuses and relays) then the lower has the plugs. The bottom is bolted to the body.

Please be smart and disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

 

Post #45, a little bit more info added in post #47.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...e-62561/page5/

 

Thanks for the quick responses!
Yes, dropping trans from the bottom and first step in process was to remove battery from car.
Sounds like I'm on the right track, will experiment with some different pry bars. I have the Haynes manual and am just following the steps outlined there. I will review the links above, maybe I'll get inspired.

Again, thanks, will keep you posted on progress.
JimW

 

Ask us before you try anything, we can save you some busted knuckles.

 

OK, Drive axles are out, just needed a bigger pry bar and they popped right out. Thanks for the video's, I really liked the use of the pickle fork.

I'm now working on dropping the subframe, I guess this is necessary because no way the trans will drop down because of clearance issues. I have the engine supported from above, just a ratchet strap attached to the engine and a 2x6 piece of wood across the engine bay.

Slow progress but no catastrophes so I'm feeling good right now.

 

OK, no issues dropping the subframe. I'm now on the last step in the manual, removing the trans to engine bolts and separating the trans from the engine.

I have removed 5 trans to engine bolts on the bottom of trans and two on top of the trans. Does that sound like I've got them all?

Any tips/tricks to separating the trans from the engine? Any best place to try and pry them apart?

It sounds like the torque converter needs to come out with the trans, any tricks to keep it from staying with the engine:?

Thanks for the help and encouragement.

JimW

 

You did unbolt the flywheel-to-torque converter bolts (through the hole where the starter usually resides)? Otherwise the torque converter won't come out.

Steve

 

And the driver’s side transmission mount, hey, some have forgotten it before.