Dexron VI is synthetic. It should not make any difference.

It would not be labelled "Dexron VI" if it did not meet or exceed the spec. Especially with the trade mark symbol.

So store brand is just as good as name brand. I guess it has all the same properties.

Well, I found out that the 25% off discount code doesn't work for fluids at Advance Auto.

So I found that Walmart had Dexron VI trans fluid in their house brand for even less.

Cat Man: Looking at the video you sent me closely again, the transmission IS disconnected from the subframe. The mount is disconnected at the center bolt through the mount. The subframe looks dropped at least 6 inches from its mount, so looks like both the subframe is dropped by at least 6 inches, but the transmission is dropped less because it's sitting about 3 inches above the subframe.

I wonder how much drop the exhaust flex joint can take before it breaks? It would be a real big pain to disconnect the flex pipe at the manifold.

Steve

If the flexpipe bothers you disconnect it at the exhaust pipe end 2 nuts.

Once everything connected to the suspension is undone and the 4 sub frame bolts the rights side suspension is holding things on that side. Your trans jack should hold it nicely. Might be smart to use some sort of engine support fixture on top.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ae47f44f29.png

fastsuv
I know I'm repeating myself, but take pictures.
Thanks

I started working on the project yesterday afternoon/evening.

I followed the factory service manual instructions for the most part.

The fuse box has to be unscrewed and tilted out of the way (after disconnecting the negative battery terminal). This is done solely to disconnect the shift cable and remove the PNP switch (park-neutral safety switch) from above.

Here is a picture of the fuse box bungeed out of the way as far as possible:


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e9f9f8628c.jpg

Here is a shot of the PNP Switch with the shift cable attached under the fuse box:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...51c27acd77.jpg

The service manual has a bit of misdirection here. It tells you to disconnect the battery, unplug the ECM connectors, tilt the fuse box, and then go to the section on removing the PNP switch. That section says to put the car in neutral before removing the switch. Of course without power the shifter won't move. I know there is a manual override method, but I didn't want to spend time on that or reconnect all the wiring, so I removed it with the transmission in park. I will deal with this during reassembly. The reason they want it in neutral is that there is an alignment tool to align the PNP switch when reassembling it. The tool is a piece of plastic that fits over the shift shaft and fits into a groove on the PNP switch. It only fits in the groove if the transmission is in neutral. I can put the shift cable on temporarily and then shift it into neutral when I reassemble.

I will continue on the process on several posts. I don't know how much you can put on one post.

I removed the whole right side suspension to get as much working room as possible. It didn't take very long to remove. This is what the wheel well looks like with suspension removed:


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...beb27966c7.jpg

In the picture below, notice how the subframe blocks the lower transmission cover bolts:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...0cff0d22d2.jpg

I then unbolted the two bolts holding the driver side subframe. I also loosened the subframe bolts on the passenger side because I didn't want to put bending force on the subframe bolts on the passenger side when I pulled the subframe down on the driver side. I also disconnected the front and back transmission mounts, but NOT the one connected at the driver side wheel well. For the front mount, I just removed the bolt going through the center of the mount. For the rear mount, it was easier to remove the 3 bolts going through the bottom of the subframe. Very important, I also disconnected the steering shaft at the rack, its easy to forget this and damages the steering. Here is a picture of the subframe dropped until it cleared the transmission:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c24a21c168.jpg

The transmission is still being held by the remaining mount, but I put a tall adjustable jack stand (with a 3/4" thick piece of plywood to spread the load) under the trans pan just in case.

Now I unbolted the remaining transmission mount. I reached up from the wheel well and removed the bolts, which are mounted from above. It was easy to do by feel. I then lowered the transmission until it looked like the cover would clear the wheel well opening. I turned the adjustment on the tall jack stands and it lowered the transmission. Watch carefully for any interference from hoses or wires (I didn't have any). The exhaust flex joint didn't really bend, the whole front part of the exhaust system dropped with the engine. I also had to drop the subframe another inch or two because the lower transmission cover bolts were now starting to go behind the subframe again as the trans is dropped.Here is a picture with the transmission dropped:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...82aaa83558.jpg

I made a homemade catch pan by hanging a bin box that I had under the transmission cover so it would catch the fluid as it came out:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a2847a02fd.jpg

Finally, I unbolted the 9 bolts and 2 studs that held the cover on. It came off easily.

Here is the transmission with the cover removed:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8b3462b020.jpg

A closeup of the valve body area:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...262dbdcd64.jpg

It looks like the 2-3 shift solenoid was indeed bad. The coil area had actually melted. Probably the coil shorted partially, just enough to draw a lot of current and overheat the solenoid until it eventually failed completely.

Here is a closeup. Note the lower (2-3) shift solenoid connector sagging downward from the melting:


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...340cc7a91f.jpg
I was on a roll and could have started reassembly, but the new parts aren't due until Tuesday from Rock Auto. I will post more when I start reassembly.

Steve