Try driving at 55-60, you will be shocked at the MPG.

 

Mine also runs hot going up a hill. It only does it when climbing. I kind of understand why automakers don't include temp guages on newer cars. The temp is not supposed to get to 212 and just stay there. Newer cars don't work the same as older cars. That being said, my 2011 will get close to the red zone going up a local pass in 105 degree weather. It has 150,000 miles and I bought it with 75,000, no cooling service done by me. The radiator is easy enough. I'm thinking I should just slap a new one one. Any suggestions on a good brand of radiator to use?

 

Just drain the rad and refill with Dexcool 50/50 mix, while your cooling system is empty install a ne thermostat, an AC Delco 131-158 , 180 degree F the Dexcool has a shelve life of 5 years so it’s long overdue for a change

 

Well Jim, you are wrong; The temp should go up to 180F very quickly then stay around 190F the fan turns on at about 217F to cool it back down to 180F, unless the AC compressor is running then the fan is always on. Just like older cars, just controlled by a computer not an analog switch.
T-stats keep the engine hot not cool like the old folks seem to think. Keeping it cool is the radiator and fans job.
DexCool has a shelf life of 5 years regardless of miles. A constant 212F is unusual, possibly damaging. 212F in stoplight infested city driving is normal. Highway driving in any weather temp should stay 190F-195F.
I would check the fan first before changing rads. You might also look at the heater core, if it is clogged you lose some cooling efficiency.
Are you aware of the digital temp gauge? In your Owner Manual, need one? link in my sig.

 

Replacing the water pump was the biggest change for me seeing high temperatures. I haven’t seen over 215ish since it was replaced and even that’s rare. In heavy traffic it’s about 200-205. I run the air conditioner almost constantly though so that may be why it’s not getting warmer since the fan is on. Much better than the 230+ I’d see on the freeway before. Now even at a sustained 90mph it’s at less than 190 usually 185-187.

 

Unless the old water pump vanes were trashed, a water pump alone new should make no difference in cooling except force you to refill a system that wasn’t really full.

Last time I drained the coolant I tried to measure every drop that came out.

 

Thank you. I probably am wrong. Ask my ex. Anyway, it's good to know the desirable temp range. I will check the heater core. I've already had the dash apart checking the grounds for the gauges pulsing. My car does stay about 192 - 200 on the highway. I use the digital temp gauge to keep an eye on it. I burped it as per your tutorial. I will also replace the coolant. Thanks again.

 

The gauges are not analog, they come through the computers. Which gauges are doing odd things?
If you mean the temp gauge goes flatline but then starts working after a restart You need a new t-stat. AC Delco 131-158 ONLY.

 

Hello, Don. I was referring to the infamous gauges pulsing. All of them. Speedo, temp, fuel gauges pulse and the power steering goes out. I replaced the alternator, which I should have done from the start. I was just saying I've already had the dash apart far enough to get the heater core out trying to troubleshoot the electrical.

 

The gauge problem can be a dead battery (less then 12.4 volts static charge) or the under hood fuse box halves are loose.