I think you need to find a different shop. As said this is all mechanical.

 

The steering rack doesn’t require reprogramming

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/www....ad.php?t=58948

 

My comment was a joke.
So was some of Don's

 

guy, let me explain it to you
a steering rack is called a "rack" because it is actually a rack - a steel bar with a toothed surface
when you turn the steering wheel, which is attached to the top of the steering column, you are turning the cogwheel attached to the bottom of the steering column. The wheel engages the rack and shifts it to the right / left.
It's oversimplified - but clear.
If the car is stationary, this rotation requires considerable effort. To overcome the friction of the wheels on the road + move almost a hundredweight of iron. Therefore, there is an amplifier between the steering wheel and the steering rack.
On our car, this is an electric booster, otherwise an electric motor that senses your effort on the steering wheel, understands which way you turn the steering wheel and connects to your work - adds its power to the strength of your hand.
An electric booster (electric motor) runs on an electric current, in this it differs from a hydraulic booster that runs on something like transmission fluid.
Thus, the electric booster does not need liquid in general and in particular topping up this liquid.
The error code is universal for the entire line of cars, regardless of what type of power steering it is equipped with.
The decoding of the error code often mentions "adding liquid" because the hydraulic booster is more common. Not everything should be taken literally, the essence of the problem is indicated. "Topping up fluid" in our case should be understood as: "your ****ing power steering cannot work correctly, it lacks something, quickly dash and figure out what's the matter."

Where to look:
The first step is the steering rack.
The fact is that the toothed wheel is pressed against the toothed rack with a regulated effort.
If the effort is small, it is life threatening. The wheel teeth will skip over the rack teeth and the machine will not respond to steering.
If the force is excessive, the gear wheel will simply bend the rack and press it against the unit body. It will be difficult for you to turn the steering wheel or you simply cannot turn the steering wheel. Jammed. And in this case, the steering amplifier will really howl, since this will work at the limit of its capabilities, it may even burn out.
The force between the gear wheel and the rack is adjusted with an adjusting bolt. His hat can be seen on the steering rack underneath. But I do not advise you to make adjustments - this is a job for a professional, let him take responsibility for your life on himself. But if you are ready to take risks, you can try, everything is simple there. The main thing is to turn the bolt just a little bit, no more than a quarter. You were advised some kind of "programming". Perhaps "programming" meant adjustment by means of an adjusting bolt.

If everything is fine with the steering rack (although I don't know how to determine if the steering rack is happy without a trial adjustment), then pay attention to the electric power assistance. Bearings, as I wrote earlier.

I wish you success and recommend giving preference to a professional repairman, just do not let yourself be deceived.

PS
Why does the steering rack get stuck?
Strange ... Worked well and suddenly got stuck.
It always happens, I don't know why. From old age, probably, general wear and tear. Teeth wear out over time and lose their shape, metal shavings are mixed with grease. It is possible that the rubber covers on the steering rods are not sealed and road dust gets inside.
What to do? Replacing the steering rack, if there is no money - repair. In our area, steering racks can be repaired, but in the USA this is hardly advisable. Perhaps not even legal.
There is still adjustment with the understanding that this is a temporary measure.
Although ... My adjusted steering rack has been serving me for 8 years.

 

With a non-SS HHR, with the first sign of any power steering problem at all, I would head straight for the dealer. There is at least one recall, an extended warranty, and several TSB’s, I think.

GM Recalls Older Model Vehicles to Fix Power Steering

https://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/...-steering.html

 

The recall/extended warranty applies to the motor completely not working, sometimes intermittently. Not "sticking" or "whining".

 

Technically not a recall for the EPS motor, but an extended warranty.

 

Yeah, yeah, I’ve made that same point, but the GM press release I linked to called it a recall. Tell them.🤣

Seriously, you’re right, guessing if there was an actual recall, it was for another model, because I’ve only seen the extended warranty and TSB for HHR’s.

 

Nothing personal, just posting the terminology applying to our trucklets.

 

To be totally correct; it was a full recall on some years and lines and countries. The extended warranty was also announced by way of a recall notice, that is the only way to do it; one form many purposes. For instance; 2010-2011 is not affected by the bad design motor, but is included in the extended warranty to avoid confusion. The Canadian 2006-2008 was a full recall on Cobalt.

The one form many purposes thing reminds me of the BOLD red threat letter I got from the IRS stating that I owed -$120 due to an arithmetic error on my return, and non payment might result in court action. Notice the Minus sign, 2 weeks later I got a check for $120.