When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just recently bought one with 199,000 miles for $2,500 to fix up for my father-in-law who needs something to drive around town. Unfortunately, I removed the valve cover because there is a noise at start up and I wanted to look at the timing chain and discovered that engine was pretty sludged up. The engine still runs good though so I'm thinking it's not too late. I've done an engine flush but haven't had a chance to take the valve cover back off to see what it looks like. The timing chain didn't seem to have any slack in it but I'm going to inspect it again and probably replace the tensioner while I'm in there to see if that makes a difference. It also has a bad vibration and knocking sound when applying the brakes and one of the rotors looks like it has some hot spots on it but just wish me luck as I try to get this car back in shape.
LCA bushings cause vibration upon braking. Engine flushes don't do much good; I would try diesel fuel or SeaFoam in the oil for a short time and scrubbing the head area.
The front brakes get hot because everybody thinks that self adjusters on the rear drums work, they don't. They need to be regularly manually adjusted.
Look at the upper chain guide, it should have a piece of plastic between it and the chain. ANY slack between the sprockets is bad chain. Don't waste your time replacing the tensioner; if it helps it is only a matter of time until catastrophic failure.
Which engine? If the valve cover has "VVT" on it it is a 2.4L otherwise it is a 2.2L (an SS is 2.0L with a SS badge and turbo).
LCA bushings cause vibration upon braking. Engine flushes don't do much good; I would try diesel fuel or SeaFoam in the oil for a short time and scrubbing the head area.
The front brakes get hot because everybody thinks that self adjusters on the rear drums work, they don't. They need to be regularly manually adjusted.
Look at the upper chain guide, it should have a piece of plastic between it and the chain. ANY slack between the sprockets is bad chain. Don't waste your time replacing the tensioner; if it helps it is only a matter of time until catastrophic failure.
Which engine? If the valve cover has "VVT" on it it is a 2.4L otherwise it is a 2.2L (an SS is 2.0L with a SS badge and turbo).
Welcome to the site. X2 about the LCA rear bushings. And I would Seafoam or Marvel mystery oil first . The engine noise is most likely a failing front guide.
All the gunk in the valve case may be from a lifetime of conventional oil and deferred oil changes. Last thing you want is to break it free too quickly.
Here's what it looked like inside before I did the engine flush. Hopefully nothing is clogged up. I havent's had a chance to take the valve cover and look at it again.I did put some fresh oil in it and new filter and I plan on letting it run for awhile with the new oil and drain it again. May try some seafoam with it next time if it still looks bad.
That is not the worst we've seen. I thought you meant solid sludge. That is just from using conventional oil.
Don't be tempted to use "High Mileage" oil; that will play heck with the rubber seals and endanger the cat.
No it still has some liquidity to it so yeah it's not the worst by far. I just got the valve cover back off and as others had said the engine flush didn't really do much.
