Donbrew, been meaning to ask. Were you a tech?

 

Nope.
ASE Certfied means he paid for the certificate in a frame to hang on the wall.

 

Waiting for the fallout from that comment! lol!!

 

Well there's the button on the steering wheel to turn it on/off.

I'm just exploring that using the brake pedal causes an issue.

You could inspect the wiring for the brake pedal position sensor.

About swapping the sensors, nevermind, I was confused. It's the brake pedal and clutch pedal sensors that are the same.

 

I thought you meant disable cruise control somehow not simply turn it off at the switch. Generally, I don't have the switch on. Rarely use it.

Thanks for clarifying the sensor thing. I was like, man, these two things don't even look close.

And since I've been home from work in the past 30 mins I put my scanner on and navigated to the BCM and checked the data on the door locks. According to the TSB I was talking about in previous posts, it states that the status should be reading "idle" and if it's not then to start diagnosing as per the instructions on the TSB. Well, my lock status reads "idle" so it seems there's no other reason to dive into that TSB anymore. I suppose I'm kind of relieved but at the same time just puts me back to point A.

I ordered a brake position sensor just because. It was cheap and at least I'll rule that out. Going to order the IPC dimmer switch too that turns on dome lights.

Like I said, going to put the factory radio back in and then do another draw test but I blew the fuses in my multimeter (not sure how) and could only seem to locate new ones on Amazon which won't be here till Sunday. So I guess I'm taking a day or two off.

 

And while you’re waiting, check the ground wires connections green nasty in the wires isn’t good!

 

So, I can tell you that I did encounter that when I went over the grounds. I found the green nasty that you're talking about on the engine to rad support ground at both connectors. That entire ground was replaced with a new one. Found it on the ground wire ends that are on strut tower and the ones down by the cruise control relay near fuse box. Obviously not replacing those so I wire brushed them as best as I could and resurfaced the connector ends. I guess it's plausible that the corrosion can get down inside the wire end where a wire brush isn't going to reach. Only way to fix that as I know of would be to clip the end back to good wire and crimp a new connector on. Not like you got a whole lot of wire there to work with.

I also found the green nasty crud down in the bundle of wires where the connectors crimp on the positive wires at fuse box and starter. I wire brushed them as best as I could too. Would corrosion on positive side be just as harmful? Those are really long wires to replace, and expensive.

Didn't see any corrosion on grounds behind tail lights but cleaned them anyways. Oh, also replaced the entire ground cable on battery and ground down to new metal on the grounding bracket. I ordered a new current sensor but noticed it has a different part # on it than the one thats already on the car so I did not install it. I ordered the one for my car so maybe the numbers changed at some point. Haven't bothered putting it on because like I said the charging system seems to be doing what it's supposed to. Do you think the part is ok to put on even though a different part #. It looks identical.

 

Here's what I found for the current sensor.

• Manufacturer:GM
• Part Number:13505369
• Replaces:10306471, 13502261, 25809382

 

thanks for that! I will check part # on the new sensor. I'm pretty sure I ordered the GM one because I don't trust aftermarket sensors. If the part # on the old sensor is any of the ones you listed as being as ones to be replaced then I'll swap it over.

 

Now we’re getting somewhere, that green goo is nasty slime that causes all kinds of electrical issues. You need to replace the wire as much as you can cut back to clean copper wire or replace the harness.
the goop causes an increase in resistance and that can cause your electrical voltage fluctuations .
As RJ said about those dimming head lights, corrosion is the cause.