brake noise/only 350 miles !
#1
brake noise/only 350 miles !
At 350 miles a noise in the right front wheel started. It sounds like the rotor.
I did change to aftermarket wheels last week at 150 miles. I'm going to retorque the wheels today. Does anyone have an idea what would cause this?
One more thing it has been very coold here.
thanks rNr // mike
I did change to aftermarket wheels last week at 150 miles. I'm going to retorque the wheels today. Does anyone have an idea what would cause this?
One more thing it has been very coold here.
thanks rNr // mike
#2
At 350 miles a noise in the right front wheel started. It sounds like the rotor.
I did change to aftermarket wheels last week at 150 miles. I'm going to retorque the wheels today. Does anyone have an idea what would cause this?
One more thing it has been very coold here.
thanks rNr // mike
I did change to aftermarket wheels last week at 150 miles. I'm going to retorque the wheels today. Does anyone have an idea what would cause this?
One more thing it has been very coold here.
thanks rNr // mike
Is it just the sound, or can you feel it in the brake pedal???
First I would check to see if anything is rubbing or interferring with the brake application.
This has been thoroughly discussed on this and other forums. And, you will get many opinions. Assuming the wheels are the correct size....
Assuming you can feel the problem in the brake pedal. Here are some things to check.......
More of a diagnosing chore.......try to determine where the problem is, front or rear. Do this by driving about 30 mph, in a clear, non-traffic area, and apply the hand brake with gradual pressure. If you have the pulsing, you problem is probably in the rear.....if not, obviously in the front.
The problem may be caused by the retainer washers on the rear or front hubs. Remove them, they are not needed for operation of the vehicle. They are installed at the time of assembly to retain the correct position as vehicle progresses through the assembly. However, make sure your drums are "seated' correctly when placing the wheel back on.
Check for ANY SUBSTANCE, NO MATTER HOW SMALL, on the wheel or drum/hub surface. Clean it very thoroughly (this is 2 machine surfaces that MUST match perfectly). A small piece of rust grit WILL cause a problem.
When reinstalling the wheels, TORQUE TO STATED SPECS. and use the star pattern for tightening. Again machined surfaces, etc. etc.
Good luck.....others may provide other comments
#4
mike;;;;;;did you remove the rotor and drum lock washers that factory puts on the stud on each rotor/drum to hold them in place during build.?they are little star looking washers[usally only on one stud]you can take side cuts and cut them off.not needed.on most aftermarket wheels they must be removed so wheel will torq down even against rotor/drum..
#5
mike;;;;;;did you remove the rotor and drum lock washers that factory puts on the stud on each rotor/drum to hold them in place during build.?they are little star looking washers[usally only on one stud]you can take side cuts and cut them off.not needed.on most aftermarket wheels they must be removed so wheel will torq down even against rotor/drum..
See post #2, somewhere around the middle paragraph
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