Broken Rear Springs
#52
Agree with "fireman"....
One maybe.....but 2, is a little hard to believe. Unless of course, you had some VERY radical suspension work done. Like to see photos also.
Anyway, I think you are a first. Don't believe anyone has posted about a busted/broken spring......let alone 2.
And donbrew mentioned about the replacement method. I wanted to add that I had a brake or fuel line (don't remember which it is) that was attached to the rear underbody....slightly right of center. That had to be released from the c-clip to prevent breakage BEFORE the axle is dropped after removing the shocks.
One maybe.....but 2, is a little hard to believe. Unless of course, you had some VERY radical suspension work done. Like to see photos also.
Anyway, I think you are a first. Don't believe anyone has posted about a busted/broken spring......let alone 2.
And donbrew mentioned about the replacement method. I wanted to add that I had a brake or fuel line (don't remember which it is) that was attached to the rear underbody....slightly right of center. That had to be released from the c-clip to prevent breakage BEFORE the axle is dropped after removing the shocks.
Here is mine that I just noticed. Rear passenger side spring coil. Bottom of the coil has snapped
I was hearing a knocking noise. Periodically when I was driving down the road. After looking around pretty thoroughly I noticed that my spring coil had broke
#53
Thanks for this feed......
Took my '07 in for New York State inspection yesterday and got a call from the mechanic that both of my rear springs were broken. Has anyone else had this problem?
I don't haul anything heavy in the car. My HHR has 92,000 miles on it, so I went to the GM dealership and they said that the springs were not covered on the 100k powertrain warranty. I ordered new ones for $64 from RockAuto.
While I was at the dealership I scheduled an appointment as at around 25 mph the front tires are really noisy - sounds like wheel bearings again, which would be my 3rd set. I also have a clunking up front that they will check out. This part is covered under warranty.
By the way, my rotors are warped again. UGH.
I don't haul anything heavy in the car. My HHR has 92,000 miles on it, so I went to the GM dealership and they said that the springs were not covered on the 100k powertrain warranty. I ordered new ones for $64 from RockAuto.
While I was at the dealership I scheduled an appointment as at around 25 mph the front tires are really noisy - sounds like wheel bearings again, which would be my 3rd set. I also have a clunking up front that they will check out. This part is covered under warranty.
By the way, my rotors are warped again. UGH.
Snapped at the bottom
#54
This seems to be so common that it suggests the design may have been less than perfect. Salt and time take their toll, but I wonder about the fatigue life of the pigtail part of this spring.
I’m dragging my feet dealing with this on our 2011 LS while I deliberate spring options; also need new shocks, already have new KYB’s on hand, need the lower spring seats.
Anyone replacing the springs, don’t miss that you need to remove the brake line brackets when you drop the axle to avoid damaging the brake lines. (Grateful for that tidbit in this thread and others.)
#55
I jusy recognize that springs wear out and replace them as often as I replace the fronts. But, I am probably alone in replacing struts when they wear out. Most people and shops look for oil drips as a sign of shock absorber death. A. they are gas shocks and B. the throw is very short.
#56
Steel is uncommon as metals go in that it has a “fatigue limit,” a stress below which the fatigue life becomes practically infinite. That stress varies with the alloy but in my opinion a properly designed automotive spring will theoretically have at least a near infinite fatigue life when used as intended.
Flaws in design and materials, and of course corrosion, can subvert that.
I have no problem with high-quality aftermarket springs from reputable makers, but would avoid replacing an OEM spring with a sketchy aftermarket one because, for reasons stated above, a new one might not last as long as the original. But of course, if one breaks you need to replace them in pairs because, who wants a springs with different properties (especially ride height) on opposite sides of the car?
Flaws in design and materials, and of course corrosion, can subvert that.
I have no problem with high-quality aftermarket springs from reputable makers, but would avoid replacing an OEM spring with a sketchy aftermarket one because, for reasons stated above, a new one might not last as long as the original. But of course, if one breaks you need to replace them in pairs because, who wants a springs with different properties (especially ride height) on opposite sides of the car?
#57
I jusy recognize that springs wear out and replace them as often as I replace the fronts. But, I am probably alone in replacing struts when they wear out. Most people and shops look for oil drips as a sign of shock absorber death. A. they are gas shocks and B. the throw is very short.
Your advice is still so rock solid. I have learned more about the Service side of our biz, and I find you are wiser every time I check in here. Hat off, Don.
#58
And what’s a “mist” from a shock?
I seem to recall reading a TSB from GM that defined seepage versus leakage. To paraphrase what I remember, that resource said that drips define a legitimate leak and moist with oil define seepage, and that seepage was not a defect but a leak is.
#59
#60
Gas shocks do have some oil in them, but it is in the bottom. Old fashioned shocks had oil on both sides of the piston, so leakage meant "bad". Now, if there is leakage you are a couple 100,000 miles late. Techs are uninformed or lazy, they think it is still the 20th century. Partly because shock are more expensive than the old days, they think they are saving you money by not selling them when needed. Back in the day, every car that came into the tire shop "needs new shocks" and brake jobs included bearings, they were cheap and a good labor profit.
Manufacturers still say they last 50,000-100,000 miles. The "push and count rebounds" test is what counts, but that is different on HHR, too. They only have a couple inches travel, unlike old land yachts.
Manufacturers still say they last 50,000-100,000 miles. The "push and count rebounds" test is what counts, but that is different on HHR, too. They only have a couple inches travel, unlike old land yachts.