HillsdaleHHR

Gonna have to call me Weekend Jeeves not home enough during the week due to work to be of assistance

Stovebolt HHR

Doesn't matter Dayton you always come through to find info for people.
You are a great member here. Always polite and helpful to all.

Alan

dbfruth

I am paying about $260 every 6 months. Of course I also have the Jeep and my House with the same company.

HILWAYB

I Had A 2002 Grand Prix. I Expected My Insurance On The Hhr To Go Up, Since It Was Newer. However, It Dropped 50.00.
Happy Driving!

HILWAYB

I Had A 2002 Grand Prix. I Expected My Insurance On The Hhr To Go Up, Since It Was Newer. However, It Dropped 50.00.
Happy Driving!

HILWAYB

How Lucky You Are. I Pay 650.00 Every 6 Months. That Is How It Is In Nj. No Tickets Or Accidents. House And Car Are W The Same Co.

Black Rose

We went from a 2003 Malibu to a 2006 HHR LT. Insurance went up $200 a year.

I think that if GM listed the HHR as a wagon instead of a truck, it wouldn't have gone up as much.

G Gray

Since I make my living selling car insurance, I think I'm qualified to add a few comments. Most of what has been said above is true or has an element of truth. However, here are some realities from one who sells the product. Two of the biggest factors nowadays in what rate you will receive (All other factors being equal) are credit rating and driving record. Almost all companies are rating on credit now. If you have good credit and a clean record you will get a better rate. Just because you have no tickets doesn't mean you have a clean driving record. Every claim in your name (that fender bender at Wal-mart, the tree that fell on your mini-van, the accident at the 4-way stop when everyone went at once and nobody was ticketed........) counts against your record. Insurance points and DMV points do not correlate, and every insurance carrier has it's own point scale. Don't think that you can get a better rate by not mentioning something when you call for a quote, either. In the electronic age, every company checks your record just before or just after issuance. It's possible to buy a policy at a savings and then be uprated to more than you were paying before after your record is checked and you have canceled your old policy. In that situation, no amount of indignation will make a difference, you have screwed yourself. (Most of the time your old company will not take you back at the same rate) Zip codes make a difference based on the loss ratio (number of claims) in that area. What a manufacturer classifies a car as makes no difference. Cars are rated based on two factors. The liability rating looks at how well a car protects its occupants in a collision, how much damage it does to other vehicles in a collision, and how many accidents that car is involved in. (Can you say Mustang GT or Mitsubishi Eclipse, boys and girls ?) The physical damage rating takes into account theft rates and repair costs. Again, every company has it's own system, although most are based on Insurance Institute data. For example, some companies hate high performance cars, period. Others are OK with them if it is a mature driver with a good record. Age makes a difference also, as the majority of insurance claims are paid on drivers under 25 and over 70. (Although "25" as a magic number on rates is a myth, if you are good in other areas your rate will start to taper down after age 21.) Between 25 and 70 age generally is not a factor. Homeowners usually get a discount, and some companies will rate on education and profession. The bottom line here is that if you are unhappy with your rate, shop. You are generally better off to change at renewal, there are fewer hoops to jump through. When you are shopping provide the agent with as much data as possible. Ideally, you should provide him with a copy of your current policy. That way you are certain that you are getting an "apples to apples" comparison. Some companies who promise to "save you a bunch of money on car insurance" do so by quoting state minimum liability limits and high physical damage deductibles. Sounds great until you hit (and hospitalized, your fault) 3 little old ladies in a new Lincoln and discover you only have $70,000 of insurance. Then you have to deal with their lawyers wanting your house and your 401-k. Or, you have to shell out $500 as your share when you hit that deer. Also, let the agent know what you are paying now. Very few companies allow an agent any control over rates. The software does it all. They get you "the best deal" by shopping you between companies. Most agents can tell you if you have a good rate allready. Anyone who comes in full of bluster and BS bringing a copy of their present policy with the rates blanked out so you'll "give it your best price" is going to be regarded as self-important and anally retentive. The agent will generally not waste a lot of time on that person, as they almost always turn out to be "pain in the *ss" customers who end up being unprofitable to deal with. I usually just run them one quote and send them down the street to bother "State Farm" or "Nationwide". Finally, (shameless plug here), an independent agent, because of representing several companies, stands a better chance of getting you a competitive rate than a "captive" one who only represents one company. Hope this helps,

Regards,

Gary

Iamaphinespelrr

We pay $2129.00 a year for full coverage with $100.00 deductible for a old Nissan 200sx se and the HHR. Our insurance went down $30 a year going from the Pacifica to the HHR. Thats with 2 adult drivers with good driving records ! And thats with a discount because they insure the house too. Florida is a no fault state. The sunshine ain't free!!

JJ_HHR

Same situation here. I went from a 2005 Aveo LT to a 2007 HHR 2LTand my insurance rates are going down. I wouldn't have minded <sp?> if my car payment went down as well. *sigh*

-JJ