add about 40 min to how long it takes you to wash and wax 1 ride. Never taken me longer than that.

 

Contrary to popular belief there is no one single polish that takes care of it all.

Most good polished come in steps or abrasivness. I use the Meguires professional line. It comes in several levels.

Power cleaner most abrasive

Diamond Cut

Dual CLeaner

Swirl Polish

Hand Polish Least abrasive

[note this a quality line if products and there are many other similar ones. I used them as an example since it is what I use. I have tried many different kinds and types and have settled on these. You should do the same as everyone here has their own likes and dislikes. I like the Meguires pro line just due to the fact it works well and gives me control of the material. I can use the least abbrasive needed for the job at hand. So in short choose the product you have tested and like. So many here will toss out names that often you will not like. So do your own research as that is the best way to find what you like.]

This line lets you choose how much abrasiveness you need on a clear coat finish. Then I finsh up with a carnubas paste wax. In my case Mothers gold.

I apply most of the polish with a Porter Cable Duel Orbiter Polisher. It does a great job and is much easier and safer to use than my larger buffer.

I show a black car on the national level and I used the same products on my daily driver.

If you do a car right it can take up to 6-8 hours depending on how bad it is [note this is worst case paint in better condition will take less]. Now once it is cleaned up it takes little maintain.

I often do a fender, hood or other panel a week spend little time on the project. It maintains the look and keep the entire car freash.

The clay once used is only to smooth the paint and remove the surface material embedded. You need to follow it with a polish and then seal it with a wax.

I also use 3M Finesse glaze. It is good for over all clean up work and works well with black.

It is hard to post the proper way to deal with this topic in just one post. Meguires has a lot of good info on their web site. ALso there are some good books on detailing and detailing tips.

This is not much different than many other topics that many think they have a handle on this but there is so much more to know and learn. The types of paints and new products make it that you need to keep up on this. There is always something to learn.

Just because you can put wax on does not mean that you are doing it the best way or using the correct products. Read up, I still do. The basics are all the same for 99% of all the products.

One other tip Micro Fiber Towels. If you don't use them you need too. This is one of the greatest things to ever come along.

 

I just did our HHR this weekend.

1 - Mothers clay bar. Second use. I use a single claybar for 2 vehicles (or two uses on one vehicle.) I seal it up in the press and stick sealing wrap, then put it in a platic box.
2 - I use the Eagle one micro spray swirl eliminator for the lubricant. It takes a little longer to wipe off, but leaves a nice finish.
3 - Then use a carnuba wax. I use turtle wax since it is 80% carnuba and cheap.

The car looks great and I'm finished in about 3 hours.

 

Might try a polish before the Wax. the clay only cleans not polishes and the wax only seals.

 

Adams all the way!! Nothing compares. Zaino?? Over rated & over priced.

goatcheez

 

I keep some Adams on hand I have not changed over to it yet but it work very well.

 

When you use the Eagle 1 you really don't need any polish, unless you've got a lot of bird crap, tree sap, or other stuff on the paint to mar the finish. Polish is a combination of abrasives and additives designed to remove and smooth marred paint and if paint gets marred you'll need polish. If the paint is basically sound with just a few spots from sap, crap ot tar, just polish those areas. I usually have to attack the bumpers and around the wheel wells with polish or tar remover a couple of times each summer.

When you have a good finish to start with, the claybar removes most of the wax and surface contaminants, and when you wipe in the spray nanowax you used as a lubricant, it fills any small swirls etc. If you are lazy, you really don't even need to apply a coat of wax.

The Eagle 1 nanotechnology fills in swirls and scratches and gives a smooth, even reflection. I thought it was all BS until I gave it a try. It really makes a difference. I use the nanowax spray everytime I wash the car now.

 

I did the wash/clay/polish/wax today. Well actually only got the front end completely done, still have to polish/wax the rest.
I have to say the polish with an orbital buffer really makes a deep shine, well worth it.

 

Anybody else try Black in a Box from Turtle wax?

 

I too Friday got the Porter Cable oribtal out and used a mix of Meguires professional and M Finess to work out some of the stone chips it touched up and sanded out on the nose of the hood.

I have a clear mask coming and wanted to get it ready.

They left no swirls or scratches and I sealed them in Mother Gold.