The 2010 was 'smelly' since bringing it home, and I suspected problem(s) long before finding this -NEED- here at HHR.net.
My brother sold me the car with a completely full fuel tank, which is just under half full now. Is there going to be an easy way to finish draining the tank before I start repairs?
I'm going to follow oldblue's lead and buy an Inline Restoration kit, and commence a repair -now- (before a catastrophe ensues), which will start with boosting the car as high as my Daytona hi-rise jack, and super tall 12-ton jack stands will accommodate.
The folks @ Inline have a 'special' on a mid-car nylon line set at $55, -or- the full length set for $129.00.
Is the material going to allow me to do the problem area now, and finish the forward area at a later time (cut/splice the nylon stuff), or do I need to 'bite-the-bullet' and set myself up for the more intensive -complete- fuel & EVAP line work now.
It would seem that fuel tank attention would be in order while I'm at it, if I'm going to get involved in a major undertaking to avoid potential for (inevitable (?) ) future problems involving fuel delivery / vapor management / brake line(?) corrosion problems here on the North coast (N.E. Ohio).
What's it like -dropping the fuel tank- while lying on my back, on a concrete driveway, with the car nearly 2 feet off the ground on those aforementioned 12-ton jack stands?
I've already -looked- at the underside of the car, previously got a load of the crusty steel lines, and figured I'd be committing myself to a bad time to get this under control, but I figured that I ought to ask some questions about ??? before diving head-long into a MAJOR involvement.

 

Bite the bullet get the nylon tank to engine kit, less chance of leaking at connections. No need to drop the fuel tank

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...follies-62310/

 

It really depends if the lines have a clean place to splice into away from the corroded spot. I did mine with a 'splice kit' and laying in the street at the cub. wasn't too bad except for getting up and getting on the ground (for me) The full length is the way to go to eliminate any future problems if you have the time and space to work on it. You don't have to raise it that high, just enough to get under there and work. A good short tube cutter is nice if you plan on splicing .

 

The Inline Tube Co. also has a pre-bent steel w/flex (as needed) lines for a few bucks under $155 - delivered (w/delivery damage/loss insurance included & tax), which leads me to consider -that- also. No connecting fittings, ect. for a multi-piece line like others are offering.. If you were partial to stainless seamless tubing the upgrade equates to about $30(?) per line additional.
There is an Independence day 2024 discount figured into that first pre-bent 1-piece line that makes the costs a bit more attractive.
The competitor's multi-piece line s sets, and the nylon lines -might- be attractive to folks fixing stuff in less than desirable circumstances, but I'm considering a -nearly- factory replacement as I've outlined in -THIS- post, over the -possibly- more convenient alternatives.
Anyone out there willing to chime-in on the things I've discovered?

 

I'm going to look at their steel brake line set product also, No better time to get ahead of the potential for misery.

 

I'll be scrutinizing the underside as closely as I can to see whether or not to take the plunge and give the 'highrise' -ALL- these lines in one fell swoop.
The car -isn't- spotting the driveway currently (just smelling fuel, and the lines sure -LOOK- crusty), and just might get by for the couple of weeks lead time to deliver the brake line set too(1-2 weeks estimated).
Since I don't have to -solely- depend on it for daily transportation I just might set up for the whole hog lines replacement, along with any other one/eighth of a million mile repairs cycle.
Since my brother already gave it the timing chain business about 20,000 miles ago, I'm hoping to see the lil'chevy serve me admirably until I come across another specimen that I'd consider adding to the stable.

 

I mention the stainless steel lines from inline in the link I posted, the nylon lines are much easier to work with.

 

I opted for the Inline Co.'s one-piece fuel feed -and- evaporative return lines. The ordered/delivered price with an insurance and local taxes came in at a grand total of $152.07 . (Independence holiday discount provided !! )
If I were working on an -otherwise- rust bucket car, or having to get this job done in a lousy circumstance, or a time limited situation I -possibly- might have steered toward the nylon sort of replacements. The -really tight local- AND quite close proximity to hot exhaust, along with potential for damage due to chafing convinced me three-fold.
When I crawled around under the car to look-see what I was getting into I ruled out another product that would come supplied as segments/multiple pieces since I could only nightmare about assembling and tightening various joints and connecting fittings -in place- , and hoping that everything got tight and wouldn't leak.
Granted, this repair will equate to -Suck Factor- HIGH!, but due to how close this all is, and everything GM did to protect & insulate these lines, the OE style of seamless steel tubing, tailored to fit, is the only thing that makes sense.
Oh, by the way, this is the ONLY car -ever- that I've had the misfortune to repair as to this NEED, that could avoid having to have the brake lines replaced also.
There's much good to say about the advent of poly-coated steel brake hard-lines !

 

The hard stainless lines are a bear to get into position, the nylon lines are easily installed, DEI has insulation sleeves for the over the axle exhaust area, I had them in my 2011 for 5 years or so, no chafing, no leaking.

 

To OP, just curious, what part of N.E. Ohio ? I'm in Euclid.