Regarding the Dexcool, I initially filed the system with Dexcool only after it started overheating I added other brands of 50/50 then eventually water to keep the system topped up since it kept spitting out the coolant that was in there. Once I figure out what the overheating issue is I'll drain and refill with Dexcool but until then it seems to be a waste of money.

 

On the MAF codes I'm not to concerned about them right now. I just emissions tested the vehicle 2 weeks ago prior to my water pump and radiator replacement and it passed just fine, so I'm good for the next 2 years. I wasn't getting any codes until after the replacement so I'm sure you are correct it needs a cleaning. Until I get a solution to the overheating the MAF codes won't matter. - Thanks.

 

Might be a good idea to pop the front timing chain cover off and check the balance shaft water pump chain is intact !

 

I opened the sprocket cover to look at the water pump sprocket and see if it was moving. I attached a video here of what I saw. Seems to be working fine. But engine seems noisy as hell.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-c...ew?usp=sharing

Thanks

 

By mixing regular coolant with dexcool you may have made the problem worse. That can form gel blobs that plug up the system. Time to give the system a flow check.

 

Sounds like a loose timing chain maybe. Take the valve cover off; if there is any play in the chain it needs attention. Yes, that will cause over heating.

Those particular MAF codes mean wiring/connector.

 

The overheating began when there was only Dexcool in system. It actually ran better before I changed out the pump and was using universal 50/50 which is why I decided to emissions test it early before tackling the water pump.

 

new water pumps have been known to be defective.

 

That noise stops once it gets above idle. It smooths out completely as far as the noise once I drive it. Sounds loud when idling.

 

Hmm. Maybe check that the thermostat is operating correctly. I know you said you changed it,,,but.
Start with a cold engine and take it for a drive with the DIC set to monitor the coolant temperature. It should increase up until around 190F degrees or so and then decrease to somewhere around 175F-180F as the thermostat opens and lets in colder coolant from the radiator. Have to keep a close watch because it won't remain at the cooler temp very long.
If you don't see a change in temperature and it just continues to get hotter and hotter, then my bet is the thermostat is bad.

A disclaimer here would be if the water pump isn't pumping, then even if the thermostat opened, no coolant would get pumped into the engine.

Just trying to cover the basics so to speak.