I'll run a chemical engine block test today and see if anything shows up. I'll test the ect vs heater temp as well. Thanks.

 

Update:
Ran a chemical engine block test and it showed no indication of gases. Retested the compression in the cooling system and engine and checked out fine. I pulled the new thermostat and replaced that one with another new one and I was able to dive the car and it ran fine for about 50 miles before all of the temperature began climbing again.
Now the engine wants to overheat like it did before after about 5 miles of driving. I hooked my phone up to the OBD port and the temperatures show that the sensor is accurate.
I tried to burb the engine again using a spill proof funnel, but the coolant starts to boil and spill onto the engine. So I turn off the engine to let the coolant cool back down and get sucked back into the engine.

Not sure what to try next???

 

It sounds like you need to read the procedure for burping again. The cap is not off for very long. Speaking of the cap, have you tested it yet?

Maybe donbrew can explain the connection between a stretched timing chain and overheating.

I feel for you, this must be very frustrating. Have you checked for coolant leaks?

 

Hi,
Yes checked for cooling leaks, there are none. Also tested the cap - seems to be fine as well. The problem does seem to be related to air in the system but I can't say for sure. I followed a youtube video on how to burp the engine using the spill proof funnel and seemed to boil over on me.

 

Was it how to burp an HHR?

1). Simply, park it nose high, at least 8" higher than level. Run it till about 190, shut it off, come back in 2-3 hours.

2). Take note of the level in the recovery tank, remove pressure cap, top off.

3). Start engine, keep topping off until the coolant starts to rise on it's own, about to overflow. Replace cap, let it run for a while(shouldn't take more than 10 minutes), but shut engine off if it's getting too hot, say, 225*.

Come back in 2-3 hours, rinse, repeat steps 2 and 3.

Does anybody disagree with the 10 minute/225* part?


Do you get smoke out of the tailpipe? How was the filler cap tested?

 

Post #2 RJ posted how to burp the cooling system , back on September 4th

 

I think that if, under any circumstance, the car reaches above 219, there is something wrong, most likely air. Gregg has seen it all, sitting in stop and go traffic on a hot, muggy Florida summer day, and never goes above 219. For that matter, he only reaches 219 for a spilt second, as the fan kicks in at 217. My opinion on a healthy temp range for the 2.2/2.4 is anywhere between 183 and 219.

 

Just a random thought could there be a block in the water jacket? Have you tried flushing the cooling system?

 

update:
So followed RJ RS SS 350's burping procedure and low and behold the car is running fine now. I have driven extensively over the past few days to be sure and it seems to hold steady between 203 and 207. It one went up to 217 when I was at an extensive stall but quickly went down once I started moving again.
Thanks for all of your suggestions and input I learned a lot from this experience.

Now I have to deal with the only remaining issue with it getting the car to recognize the new tnps sensors. Went to Discount Tire and had them installed. I was told their device recognized all sensors but it did not reset the wheel light on the dash. They suggested I drive it for a while and that might fix it but after considerable amount of driving it still flashes and ten stays lit.

Thanks again everyone.

 

That's great to hear! I can't take credit, I learned from oldblue. You should monitor the coolant level in the recovery tank, and under the pressure cap, every morning for a while. Unless that temp is in city traffic, that still seems just a bit higher temp than typical, you may still have a small air pocket.