So I'm slowly fixing all my car's issues.

Currently done the right rear door latch and the radiator fan.

Major fixes left: front window regulator, AC blower fan, rear hatch gas tubes, windshield washer sprayer, exhaust system (o2 sensors, downpipe/cat convertor, camshaft sensors) and the keyfobs.

For the keyfobs, I found that I can buy a fob and programming tool from Amazon for about $90. Some people say it works fine with no issues including remote start (my car is factory equipped), and other say only the locks work and the car complains about the fob battery, and the warning doesn't ever go away. Anybody have experience with using this tool and the keyfobs?

 

Don't be intimidated by the regulator. Not that bad. Hardest part is getting the hang of the door card R&R.

Blower fan is usually the resistor pack.

Windshield washer motor often seizes. Not servicable, but motor/pump assy is cheap and easy to replace. The o-ring is tricky.

Make sure the hatch gas struts are the exact same length. Some wring-lengths are said to "fit," but longer will cause hinge binding, and shorter will bang your head.

Get NTK O2 sensors, not Bosch. Do you research on the cat, especially if you must pass inspection.

Yes, hit-or-miss on the Dorman diy fob programmer, probably because of the fobs they ship. Careful about fobs you buy online. Some are thouble. Check with a few locksmiths. Some will pair your fob. Some will only pair what they sell you. Some are very reasonable. Some are incompetent pirates. Ask me how I know.

 

I had the lower battery issue with the dorman programmer and fob.

Got an OEM fob, programmed it with the dorman programmer, all good. Sent the dorman fobs back, with their blessing.

 

I suggest that you get a Genuine GM fob to go with the programmer. The programmer programs the CAR not the FOB.
The GM fobs are available on eBay and Amazon, as are the Dorman units.

 

How would I know if it's just the resistor vs the fan motor?

My tank is cracked, so I'm gonna have to remove it from the car anyway, so it should be easy.

No inspection needed. I may even end up getting o2 simulators. I'm pretty sure I bought a cheap one last time for the downstream from Amazon thinking that would fix it before the exhaust pipe blew entirely.

So, the Dorman tool works best if I buy OE GM fobs? What about newer fobs from newer cars? I found a key fob from a GM car in the parking lot by my car that belongs to a Chevy about 10 years newer, no chance for that to work?

 

That fob will not work. But, yes the Dorman programming module works for a Genuine GM fob as well as the off brand fob they sell with it.

If the fan resistor is bad the fan only runs on high speed. If it does not run at all it is either the switch or the motor.

 

The fan doesn't run at all, though sometimes at a stop, I can feel very very low airflow from the vents if I stick my fingers in them.

As for that fob, dang. It's a genuine GM fob (probably to a pickup or an equinox). I found it in the parking lot of my apartments, and I picked it up because I'm a pack rat. I was hoping I could use the programming tool to get my car to respond to it, cause that would save me some money.