I've got a 08 h h r l s with a two point two, No crank No start problem. I've checked the starter the battery.The relays under the hood and I just can't figure it out.Any help would be appreciated.

 

First off, tighten those four 7 mm bolts in the under hood fuse box.

 

Did that
and replaced the ignition switch. The night before it Quit working, The power steering without, I shut the car off and when I turned it back on the power.Steering was good again next morning.I woke up no click no nothing

 

Recheck your work. , look at all wires you touched

 

Why replace the ignition switch? This is the 21st century, the switch sends a digital signal to the computer.
Did you tighten the bolts past "afraid they would strip?
Did somebody put a second wire on the rear lug on the fuse box? That is the power steering feed, not ground.
Is the front lug tight, on 2 wires? That comes from the battery and to the starter and alternator.
Have the recalls been done? There is a link in my sig to find out.

 

I'm sorry I think you misunderstood. The car was already not running when I replaced the Ignition switch. When I re-read my post I realized. That I worded it wrong.
The other night I was heading Home, And when I went to start the car it started fine.I took off and there was no power steering. So I stopped at the gas station. Got some gas when I started the car. It had power steering. So I just thought That was weird. So I drove home about 50 miles.Parked the car in my driveway and the next morning.It was like it had a dead battery. Turn the key over no click, No nothing.So I thought it was the ignition switch so I replaced it...
. There was no change.
Then, I thought it's gotta be the starter took it, had it tested, starters fine. Now , I come to find out, Everything electronic about these cars is tied into the Ignition system.(so to speak)
Not sure if the recalls have been done.

 

….I read what they told you and what your reply was….Im just gonna say….those fuse bolt bolts will trick you. I had the same issue….no crank…nothing. I had just put the fuse box back in and was confident they were tight. ….went back and re-checked them….declared good…still no crank and no rear hatch opening. Thankfully, Donbrew told me…bolts are not tight. So I re-visited those 4 7mm bolts again…..tightened till they “popped”….and kept tightening till they bottomed out. Not saying thats your problem….but it was mine. Easy check or double, triple check in my case….easy fix.
Amazingly everything went to work after I got those 4 tight. Those bolts are there to pull and fully seat the wiring harness connectors to the fuse box.

 

Is there something wrong with clicking on links?
I did understand that you changed the switch after.
If you meant "computer system" when you used "ignition system" then you are correct. The switch is a position sensor, not a "switch" like in 20th century cars.
There are 2 fuse boxes, the one under the hood is the one we are talking about.

 

Would that not be the relay?

 

I'm talking about the switch up.By the key cylinder is the one I replaced