The switch/sensor is in the steering column, activated with the key. The relay is in the under hood fuse box, energized by the computer, which is why we keep emphasizing cranking the bolts down. Then there is the starter solenoid that is on the starter, energized by the relay.
There is no direct connection from the key to the starter, like in the last century.

The large red wire on the starter is hot at all times, it comes from the front lug of the under hood fuse box. The other wire on that lug comes from the battery.
Did you test voltage going to the relay when the key is turned to start ?
If this is a 5 speed There is a clutch position sensor.
If it is automatic there is a park/neutral sensor on the trans. Do the backup lights work?
Also, a brake pedal sensor. Do the brake lights work?
Is the battery voltage at least 12.3?

 

Good Afternoon and thanks for being so patient with my computer illiteracy.
So... I've cranked the fuse box bolts down, and yes, feels like they are gonna strip. Backup lights work, brake lights work and battery voltage is at 12.7 volts. I have not yet checked the voltage at the relay when in start position. Oh, and nothing happens when I try to start it in neutral.

 

I'm not going to try to diagnose your problem, but I will give you some advice:

Before you spend a nickel on another part, see if there is a mobile mechanic in your area with a high level scan tool that can check your car out. Doesn't matter if you have or don't have a CEL. These are computers on wheels and something is making the computer unhappy. You might pay a mobile mechanic $100 or so for the diagnosis, but it will save you hundreds in buying parts you do not need. (such as- say, ignition switch)

 

I've now checked the Power at the relay When the key is turned to the start position .I get twelve volts on the Left side . And I get 12 V at the front lug on the left side of the fuse box. And I replaced the battery as it was 5 yrs old. Still nothing I don't know what else to check

 

You say that you checked the starter, what exactly does that mean?

 

Well, I removed the starter and had it tested. It tested good.

 

But I don't know where to go from here

 

So...I've got 12.65 volts at the "b" lug on the starter. And when the key is turned to the "start" position, I get 12 .65 volts to the "s" lug on the starter. Shouldn't that crank.?
I guess. I should have mentioned that the "s". Lug stays energized at the 12.65 Voit's for about 3 seconds. But I think that's normal.

 

Sounds like the starter/solenoid is bad.

 

Sorry for the repeat.