Anyone know if its still recommended to change your oil after the first 500 to 1500 Miles? Or is this not the case anymore.

Also How long should i wait to switching to Mobil 1? It seems to differ depending on Vehicle's and who you talk to. Witch Switching as anyone seen any improvements as far as MPG and Engine Idle Etc? Should i even bother. I
've had a Silverado,Dodge Ram,Saturn Vue all of which i ran Mobil one in and saw a 1-2mpg gain. Im just not sure how this 4 banger handles things. This is my first 4 Banger as well.

Any advise would be great!!

 

I changed mine out @ 1000 but its really a matter of personal choice. I went with Mobil Clean 5000 conventional because it was pretty close to the factory fill oil.

 

My Service Rep told me to change it after the first 3000 miles, then follow the DIC afterward.

Type of oil, I dunno. Never used synthetic. I'd be interested if that's recommended and why. I heard once on a radio show if you go synthetic you can never go back?

 

I, in the past, changed the oil in my new cars at 1000 miles. The HHR I waited until 5000 miles and the DIC showed 50%. The first oil change from the dealer was a freebie. I did the second with Mobil 1 around 10000 and have been doing them myself with Mobile 1 when the DIC gets down to 30% or so. Now at ~36000 miles, the car runs well, uses no oil. The last oil change had 7000+ miles and DIC was 30% something. The oil looked remarkedly clean after that many miles.

Fresh oil is usually good insurance for a car's engine longevity.

 

Good read. I've always changed me oil when the DIC reaches 30-50% Depending . However i've always changed my oil after the first 1500 miles.

 

No reason to start with a quick oil change. 50 years ago the excuse was there were still metal shavings in the engine that needed to be washed out and part of that stupidity still lingers.... You can safely wait thousands of miles. VERY hard to believe once you go to syn that you have to stay there. My SRT10s require Mobil 1 and it costs me over $107 to get the oil and filter changed but those V-10s require at least 10 quarts. Murrays has Mobil 1 on sale at $4.99 sometimes and I will be tempted to use that in Momma's HHR.

 

I read that my SS came from the factory with Mobil 1. I suspect the benefits of this type of synthetic oil in the 2.2 or 2.4 would be worth the added cost. I have seen Mobil 1 sold in a 5 quart jug, but I have not priced it out. I suspect buying the 5 qt jug would save a little off the cost of buying individual quarts.

Note. I had a 1986 toyota pick up and switched to mobil 1 in 1992ish when it was first getting big. My Toyo lasted til 2001 and had 385,000 miles on it when my sister totaled it. I never had any internal engine problems even with that many miles on it. I plan to use M-1 for my SS as long as I own it.

SPPD

 

I change the filter at 1,000 miles and the factory fill at 2,500 miles. From there, OCI's are based on Dyson UOA's.

Correct, the SS 2.0L LNF engine comes with Mobil 1 5w-30 from the factory. The additional heat from the turbo and more importantly the direct injection is very hard on engine oil. I'm not a big fan of the highly marketized and low performing Mobil 1 and won't be using it past the original fill. I'll be performing the normal Dyson used oil analysis on all OCI's to see how well the LNF is built. If my instincts and experience prove as I expect, the only oil that is going to provide good wear numbers with the high contamination levels of the direct injection is RLI SHP HD 10w-30. Pennzoil Platinum is my second choice.

If you want an interesting read, head over to BITOG and check out RI_RS4 posts concerning the Audi RS4 direct injected engine. A custom RLI 5w-40 was the only oil that could cut the mustard for this engine.

Toyota engine's are very well designed and typically produce very low wear levels in UOA's. I've got 4 years of OCI's with Dyson analysis on the 4.0L V6 I traded on the SS. The only issue I had was the dusty environment and a leak in the intake tract that I could never find that was causing high silicone counts. Wear numbers were great and that engine loved the RLI SHP HD 10w-30.

 

With a new engine, I usually keep the factory-fill oil in until 1000-2000 miles but I change the oil filter once at 500 miles and again at 1000-2000, at which point I switch to synthetic.

Once I go to a premium, 10W30 ester-based synthetic, I change oil every 18,000 miles with filters every 3000 or so and back that up with spectrographic analysis. The Ecotec's oil filter set-up makes that really easy to do...no muss, no fuss.

I bought two cases of ACD filters.

Just remember not to overtighten the oil filter housing cap.

 

Damn that sounds like Hib has it right!