Temp guage remains inactive.....
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 08-27-2017
Posts: 31
From: Chico, California
Temp guage remains inactive.....
Ok, so a few days ago I noticeed that the temperature guage quit working on my 2007 HHR. No big deal, I figure I'll replace it in a couple days when I get a chance. But....
Just curious as to why my air conditioner quit blowing cold air (obviously the a/c clutch coil ring is not getting energized to create the magnetic effect to pull the clutch face towards the a/c clutch pulley). Never had a problem with the a/c system before. Is the coolant temp sensor some how related to the a/c system in such a manner that if the sensor quit working it would cause the a/c to quit working as well.
The ONLY reason I could think of as to why the a/c quit working is because the ECM is intentenionally preventing the a/c from activating because the ECM thinks the temperature is so cold that the a/c system may become damaged from the internal discharge orifice "icing over". Thus ruining the hi psi sensor or the compressor itself.
It was slightly warm outside yesterday so I tried to use the a/c to blow cold air but it didn't work. No big deal. I can deal with warm weather. However, this morning on my way to work, I wanted to use the dash vents to defrost the windshield.
I turned on the heater, pushed the recirculate button and the only thing that happened was the recirculation light blinked a few times on the defrost button and the HVAC system kept pulling in fresh air. Is this normal.....for the system to pull fresh air while in defrost mode? On The Wifes BMW, I turn on the defrost mode and it recirculates the cabin air, it doesn't pull in fresh air. I know the BMW system pulls in the cold moist cabin air, chills it even more making the air really dense then that cold dense air passes thru the particulate filter, the micron filter, the odor neutralizing filter thingy, the heater core and finally is recirculated back into the cabin as hot-DRY clean air with virtually zero humidity.
So, is it normal for the recirculation mode to NOT be used while defrost mode is activated????
Just curious as to why my air conditioner quit blowing cold air (obviously the a/c clutch coil ring is not getting energized to create the magnetic effect to pull the clutch face towards the a/c clutch pulley). Never had a problem with the a/c system before. Is the coolant temp sensor some how related to the a/c system in such a manner that if the sensor quit working it would cause the a/c to quit working as well.
The ONLY reason I could think of as to why the a/c quit working is because the ECM is intentenionally preventing the a/c from activating because the ECM thinks the temperature is so cold that the a/c system may become damaged from the internal discharge orifice "icing over". Thus ruining the hi psi sensor or the compressor itself.
It was slightly warm outside yesterday so I tried to use the a/c to blow cold air but it didn't work. No big deal. I can deal with warm weather. However, this morning on my way to work, I wanted to use the dash vents to defrost the windshield.
I turned on the heater, pushed the recirculate button and the only thing that happened was the recirculation light blinked a few times on the defrost button and the HVAC system kept pulling in fresh air. Is this normal.....for the system to pull fresh air while in defrost mode? On The Wifes BMW, I turn on the defrost mode and it recirculates the cabin air, it doesn't pull in fresh air. I know the BMW system pulls in the cold moist cabin air, chills it even more making the air really dense then that cold dense air passes thru the particulate filter, the micron filter, the odor neutralizing filter thingy, the heater core and finally is recirculated back into the cabin as hot-DRY clean air with virtually zero humidity.
So, is it normal for the recirculation mode to NOT be used while defrost mode is activated????
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,488
From: Fredericksburg,VA
The reason for all of that is that the t-stat is stuck open and the engine is not getting hot enough fast enough.
Are you ignoring the CheckEngineLight? You probably have a code P0128.
For a description of how the fresh air system works see your Owner Manual; digital copy available through the link in my sig.
Are you ignoring the CheckEngineLight? You probably have a code P0128.
For a description of how the fresh air system works see your Owner Manual; digital copy available through the link in my sig.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 39,993
From: Welland,Ont Canada
You should have a MIL or CEL also, most likely P0128.
If your temp gauge in the DIC shows - - - -, then it’s your thermostat that has given up
Replace your thermostat with only an ACDelco unit and replace the coolant with only 50/50 mix Dexcool
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-24493/page15/
If your temp gauge in the DIC shows - - - -, then it’s your thermostat that has given up
Replace your thermostat with only an ACDelco unit and replace the coolant with only 50/50 mix Dexcool
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-24493/page15/
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,043
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
.... and to expand on the reason for all of this stuff shutting down is that when the thermostat is jammed open, due to it's internal gasket failing, the engine is slow to warm up.
When it is slow to warm up, the Check engine light comes on posting a p0128 code.
When that code is generated the temp display goes to -- --, the A/C is disabled.
Later if you restart it with a warm engine, the CEL will often go off, as it warms up fast enough. The problem will often be intermittent during the fall, but get more frequent as we get into colder winter weather.
When it is slow to warm up, the Check engine light comes on posting a p0128 code.
When that code is generated the temp display goes to -- --, the A/C is disabled.
Later if you restart it with a warm engine, the CEL will often go off, as it warms up fast enough. The problem will often be intermittent during the fall, but get more frequent as we get into colder winter weather.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 39,993
From: Welland,Ont Canada
Get this thermostat AC Delco 131-158
https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-ori...n-131-158.html
Or any other site or store. The other least expensive thermostat’s won’t open in the parameters the computer is looking for.
https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-ori...n-131-158.html
Or any other site or store. The other least expensive thermostat’s won’t open in the parameters the computer is looking for.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 08-27-2017
Posts: 31
From: Chico, California
donbrew has psychic powers.........I am ignoring my CEL.
I went out and scanned the car. OBD code came back as P0128
You guys know your stuff.
Sadly, I don't want to wait for shipping. The thermostat is a critical part. Chevy dealership has them available and in stock for $67.21 out the door. GEEZ!!!! Talk about getting Dealer Markup.
I'm heading over to pick one up right now.
Thanx guys.
I went out and scanned the car. OBD code came back as P0128
You guys know your stuff.
Sadly, I don't want to wait for shipping. The thermostat is a critical part. Chevy dealership has them available and in stock for $67.21 out the door. GEEZ!!!! Talk about getting Dealer Markup.
I'm heading over to pick one up right now.
Thanx guys.
Senior Member
Joined: 09-16-2013
Posts: 1,408
From: Tampa, Florida
You could've bought it off amazon for half the price. It is critical, but if the car is UNDER heating then it doesn't require IMMEDIATE attention IMHO. At least could've waited a few more days since you have been ignoring it anyway 
(kidding)
(kidding)
